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Identifying glass in DGU

Discussion in 'Windows and Doors' started by m0t, 23 Feb 2021.

  1. m0t

    m0t

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    We've had some building work done and during the process one of our patio doors got chipped. The builder has agreed to pay to replace the unit but wants me to sort out getting the glass on site.

    Is there any way to identify what coating is on it? I know from having other windows fitted that they all have a very slight tint which isn't noticeable until you put them next to a different manufacturers glass so I want to order the right thing.
     
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  3. ronniecabers

    ronniecabers

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    The low e pane will either be Pilkington K or Planitherm softcoat. If you know roughly how old they are then I would be able to hazard a guess but as you say Pilk k glass should have a very slightly bronze tint. Easiest way to check is to hold a piece of white paper half behind the glass and half not obstructed at all. Any bronze tint and its Pilk K , no tint and it will be Planitherm
     
  4. crank39

    crank39

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    As Ronnie say age could be an indicator but both manufacturers produce clear coated tinted coated glass just to play with your head a bit more

    Pilkington K = a hardcoat with tint
    Pilkington K-S = softcoat without tint

    Saint-Gobain Ecologik = hardcoat with tint
    Saint-Gobain Planitherm total+ softcoat without tint

    But in 2016 I think Saint-Gobain produced a hardcoat without a tint just to confuse you even more called SGG E-Clear A

    Obviously your builder doesn't want to be involved with deciding which spec you have but is happy to pay, I'd say in reply to that is you want both replacing now so they match
     
  5. azillio

    azillio

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    I have a sililar(ish) question.. Is there any way of identifying which side the coating is on? I bought a number of DGUs in 2019 and am finally going to fit them. I watched a (very informative) video on glazing a sash and the carpenter used a laser to check the coating and then ensure it faced inwards.

    He mentioned that sometimes the labels are put on the the wrong side by mistake, so best check - however, I'm hoping to avoid buying an expensive tool just for one job..

    I believe it may have been Pilkington low energy 4/6/4..

    Many thanks for any help!
     
    Last edited: 27 Apr 2021
  6. ronniecabers

    ronniecabers

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    depends on the glass type.
    I am about confused as to how he used a laser? There is a tool called the merlin lazer but relies more on actually putting the tool on the glass, guessing that's what he used. Anyway back to your units, very hard to determine without the tool when they are a sealed unit, personally I wouldn't be too fussed about which face the low e glass is on , face 2 or 3 work just as well on those very thin units ( face 1 being inside the house , face 4 faces out, so faces 2 and 3 are inside the unit). IF you have planitherm or Pilkington softcoat, you may be able to see the ' edge delete ' of the coating within the first 10/12 mms of the glass ( probably under the sealant, but should be visible , if you see it you will know exactly what I mean lol ). I don't think you'd have any fear of the ' softcoat' being on either of the external faces, as by now they would have started to degrade and go a bluey/white
     
  7. azillio

    azillio

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    @ronniecabers

    Yes, it was a Merlin laser, and yes, he placed it on the glass surface.

    Thanks for the info. Sounds like I shouldn't worry too much then. Also, the panes are for doors to a courtyard - four to a door on the upper half, and relatively small (260x420mm) and in a Mediterranean climate (so chosen as much for keeing the heat out during Summer!).

    I'm planning on using Butyl tape and leaving around a 3mm gap all 'round (DGUs are un-taped) with a couple of spacers to the bottom of the panes..
     
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