Immersion heater

1. you can't use wall voids to run cables in.. not allowed...
2. suppose the roof joists run paralell to the wall you're trying to get to.. no way to get cables throught the void..
 
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It is considered bad practice to put an item such as an immersion heater on a ring circuit, it is a heavy load and will be on for quite some time. It is better on its own circuit.
Agreed, but the worst that can happen is that it becomes a nuisance...
 
It is considered bad practice to put an item such as an immersion heater on a ring circuit, it is a heavy load and will be on for quite some time. It is better on its own circuit.
Agreed, but the worst that can happen is that it becomes a nuisance...


Fit a timer to prevent the immersion coming on during the day when other appliances are in use. The timer over ride could be used if necessary to top up.


http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMFST17.html
 
Coljack, where I wrote to route the cable down the inside of the wall I meant to route it down the surface of the wall inside the adjacent room. I agree that running cables through an interfloor void can be difficult with joists in the way, but the guy only has to lift a few floorboards and drill holes, which has to be better than digging channels through concrete flooring or routing cables around the outside of the house.
 
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and once again.... it's a flat roof, no access from above, no access from below...

no floorboards to lift..
 
Coljack,
You are assuming that the whole of the building is covered by a flat roof. I'm not. I'm assuming that only the utility room (as part of a rear extension to a standard 2 floor house) is covered by a flat roof. The cable can run between the floors to the house wall, drop down inside the house and out into the utility room. But, it could be a flat roofed building, with a concrete floor, which is more akin to a commercial building than a domestic one.
 
shouldn't the heater be wired through a stat? No need for a timer if that's the case.
 
shouldn't the heater be wired through a stat? No need for a timer if that's the case.

The MegaFlow heating element has a built in thermostat and a thermal cut-out that will switch off the immersion heater in the event of a thermostat failure.

http://www.ribaproductselector.com/Docs/7/03727/external/COL503727.pdf?ac=

The above link is similar too a MegaFlow system with the same recommendations on element connection. They and MegaFlow specify a 13 amp double pole switch isolator (switched fuse), page 15 and 1.5mm flex. Personally i would install a separate circuit (16 or 20 amp) and double pole isolator. The element is only designed to keep topping up the hot water that is already stored in the tank as heating from cold would take a long time and be very expensive.
 
All water immersions have thermostats fitted. So i guess it is ok to run this from a 13 amp outlet.
 

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