Impact wrench = no joy

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wak

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Does anyone have experience of using a Clarke XPro Impact Wrench?

"Powerful twin hammer action. 500ft/lb of power loosens the tightest of nuts with ease."

Just bought the wrench and a 50lt compressor with the aim of unseizing a suspension bolt (the bolt is 24mm and passes through the front upper wishbone - i'm removing it to replace the bushes). I managed to remove the nut but the bolt is sized in the frame. The wrench had no impact. I even tried heating the frame, and used plenty of WD40, but no joy.

My set up includes an 8mm (not the recommended 10mm) hose, 5m length. I'm about to upgrade the hose but wondering if i'm wasting my time with this wrench.

Any advice appreciated.
 
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You need some proper dismantling/penetrating oil (Plusgas) and apply torque and leave it torqued up over night. (You won't be able to do that with your compressor & wrench). Use the same socket with a breaker bar and scaff pole with something like a bottle jack applying force between the pole and ground. In the morning, apply some more penetrating oil, some more torque, and go to work. When you come home give it some more torque, then give it a crack with a lump hammer.

All of this is only any good if you're sure it's only rust keeping it in there - pehaps it's captive or welded?

Nozzle
 
In situations like that I usually try hammering the bolt out to loosen it before taking the nut completely off, so that the nut protects the threads a bit.
On the odd occasion I have messed up the thread requiring a new nut and bolt.
I have used a piece of wood to protect the end of the bolt also.
I suppose a copper, or other soft-faced mallet could also work, especially in conjunction with heat.
 
Its a good enough bit of kit, but it will only produce that sort of torque on the tightening stroke and only even then when the air supply is ideal.
If that bolt is meant to shift, use a breaker bar and pull like hell....heat from a gas axe is even better but it will goose any rubber bushes so you are at the point of no return.
The bolt isn't splined in, to adjust the camber angle by any chance?
John :)
 
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What about turning the bolt clock wise then anti clock wise. I find that helps sometimes.

Andy
 
Thanks all, getting some new ideas to try!!!

here's a good vid.

Didn't know the torque would be different depending on direction! Must try the forward + backward approach...
 
It states in the technical info that gun requires 18.5 cfm on load?
I bet your compressor is only around 6 cfm.
 
Most 50lt compressors seem to be around 6 - 7 cfm but my twin engine 3HP Warrior claims to be 14.6 cfm, which is pretty close.
 
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I'm afraid there's no way an 8mm hose is ever going to pass a sufficient volume of air to get the best out of that gun! Go for as big diameter hose as you can.....but its unfortunate that many have just 1/4 BSP ends anyway.
John :)
 
Belle427 said:
Plus you can sometimes get restrictions in the outlet pipework of the compressor.
Click to expand...

True enough, the outlet valves are usually very restrictive, and the regulators. (Even when wound to the maximum)

Nozzle
 
I suppose the length of hose is a factor so you could keep it to the minimum
 
Plus gas and a breaker bar. Don't be shy with the hammer. Worth checking on a model specific car forum to see if it's a captive bolt too - or splined as mentioned earlier.
 
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