in screed conduit / cable question

mgx

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I am rewiring a front room/kitchen will be LABC approved. I have five circuits that run from a CU in hallway cupboard - these have to run in screed for about 1.5 m (two door widths) L shape due use of full height doors, concrete ceiling etc. Circuits then run up 2.4m of stud wall, along 4m, around a corner, across 2m, then 3 kitchen circuits run down and stop at DP isolation switches -- all still in stud wall. The 2 living room circuits don't run down but continue across and around to service lights + power in the room (the rest of the room being breeze block). Kitchen circuits are 2x 10mm radials (hob + dual ovens), 1 x 4mm radial (kitchen appliances / sockets), living room circuits are 1x 1.5mm (lights) + 1x 4mm radial (sockets).

Question 1:
- I don't want to use steel conduit in screed (too hard to bend), but looking at galvanised flexible conduit with PVC coating, appears to have same mechanical protection, plus will be in concrete. It's a bit more costly, but short distance and easier for me to work. Alternatively, I could get some flush screed channel, but this is a bit specialised and might be hard to work. 5 flexible conduits seem easiest. Does that sound sensible? The routing around the hallway cupboard is complicated due to multiple water pipes, UFH pipes, etc :(.

Queston 2:
- For the cables - what's the best way to do this: singles between the CU through the conduit and then junction them to T+E in the stud wall so they go T+E onwards, or due to kitchen circuit length to DP switches being short, just run singles all the way there in oval? I can't run singles all the way for the 2 room circuits, so either do actually need to junction them to T+E, or if I'm using 20mm conduit, plus they are radials, it is okay to put T+E through the conduit? Since the conduit run is pretty small, and each circuit has its own conduit, derating should be minimal.

Thanks for reading!
 
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the chanel would be best option..
no need to use steel in the floor..plastic will do as long as it's at the bottom of the screed..( it's not likely that you'll drill into the floor or nail up a picture, and the nails on carpet gripper are only about an inch long.. )
 
Thanks! Does anyone have suggestions where I can get some inscreed ducting from, etc? Since I'm a DIYer I'm not familiar with elec distributors and these components.
 
Hi I would also go with the in screed ducting option as it allows for more cables to be added later if required in the future.

The following link is a supplier of plumbing screed ducts

http://www.bes.co.uk/

search for pipe ducts.

All you need to do is dig the channel out of the screed lay the channel into the chase fil any voids aroiund it with expanding foam/screed and then you just need some 12mm plywood to make a lid for it

Job done

Nick
 
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Okay, but that stuff wouldn't provide sufficient mechanical protection (only 12mm plywood cover). I need some sort of galvanised trunking/ducting, something like this (http://www.cableduct.ltd.uk/PDF/PAGE10%20FF.PDF) I found on Google. I need to look harder!
 
Why would it not provide enough mechanical protection???? Its in the floor unlikeley to be drilled screwed or nailed into and if its suitable for use with water/gas pipes then is more than upto the job of carrying a few T+E cables from A to B .Have you got a price from the above company for what you require??? It will probably scare the life out of you when you do for that sort of trunking. Also bear in mind any fittings you need will cost a fortune for rising up through the floor or bends etc etc , It only comes with a 2.5mm steel lid which would be more flexible than a 12mm plywood lid . Just my oppinion but if you have the money go for whatever suits you best .

Nick
 
Do you want to be able to take the lid off whatever you install? Would that be possible anyway, given the flooring you plan?

Do you want to be able to pull new cables through?
 
The IEE guidelines (I bought, to educate myself) indicate that when cable <50mm below surface in joists it needs mechanical protection. I assume the same applies to screed floors for flush fit ducting, a 12mm timber cover (even with 18mm of engineered floor over it) doesn't seem sufficient to me. And it's the LABC I need to keep happy :). I can't put the ducting in the slab (too hard) or at the bottom of the screed (some pipes need to run under the cable path).

The route does not need to be accessible - it's very short (~2m), and I don't need to (foreseeably!) pull new cables through later. My main concern is to do what keeps LABC happy and is not complicated for me to install (effort more important than cost) - if a solution isn't clear then I can probably just wait until they come out to look at first fix (a couple of weeks away) and ask exactly what they're happy to pass.

It seems to be a trade off: ducting/channeling makes for easier cabling (just pull the T+E through), but is more complicated to install, steel flexible conduit is easier to install (and no derating, one circuit per conduit) but complicates the cabling due to need to use singles (unless someone tells me that I can allowably put 10mm T+E through 20mm of flexible conduit - it will physically fit, but I thought it was inappropriate to put insulated T+E through conduit like this, maybe I was wrong on that).
 
the distance in a ceiling / floor with joists is because of the fixing of the plasterboard / floorboards.. you nail or screw them in and they don't want you putting a screw through a cable..

with a solid floor, you're unlikely to screw or nail anything to it other than carpet grippers, but they only have small nails.. just spraypaint the floor where the duct runs for a warning..

how deep is the screed?
you may get away with just using a drain pipe and bends.. http://www.screwfix.com/prods/88375.../FloPlast-92-5º-87-5-Bend-Grey-32mm-Pack-of-5
 

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