Incandescent light bulbs (tungsten) popping taking out fuse in fuse box?

[JohnW2]

So if I fitted LED bulbs, from ebay or otherwise, I assume there's absolutely no chance of them exhibiting the same problems I had with cheap legacy filament bulbs which went out with a bang, causing the fuse in the fusebox to go out too?

"Absolutely no chance" is almost an impossible hope in relation to anything, but the chances of that happening are pretty low.

In the days of incandescent ('filament') bulbs, it was very common for the death of a bulb to trip one of my breakers. However, in a good few years of living with a large number of (cheap) LEDs, I think that has only happened here on one occasion. Even the cheapest of LEDs seem to usually have some sort of fuse inside them, which will usually blow before anything else does.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

So if I fitted LED bulbs, from ebay or otherwise, I assume there's absolutely no chance of them exhibiting the same problems I had with cheap legacy filament bulbs which went out with a bang, causing the fuse in the fusebox to go out too?

There is a chance, depending what failure they exhibit, but very unlikely to cause the fuse to blow.

 

[bernardgreen]

I assume there's absolutely no chance of them exhibiting the same problems

You assume wrongly. There is a chance that an LED lamp could fail and create an internal short circuit fault current high enough to trip an MCB,

Interesting that a lot of LED lamps come from the same factory. VIDEO with a wide range of prices almost identical circuitry.

 

[JohnW2]

You assume wrongly. There is a chance that an LED lamp could fail and create an internal short circuit fault current high enough to trip an MCB,

Indeed - as I recently wrote. However, as I said, it seems that even the cheapest ones often/usually have some sort of apology for a fuse (usually a little strip of foil) which, as I said, will hopefully usually 'blow' before anything else does.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Even the cheapest of LEDs seem to usually have some sort of fuse inside them, which will usually blow before anything else does.

They tend to use a resistor, which will limits the short circuit current - a trick I sometimes use, where normal demand is low, but on a circuit with a relatively large current behind it. Resistors are much cheaper than fuses.

 

[bernardgreen]

This 20 Amp SN2 - HRC Fuse Link

was blown when a one Watt Golf Ball lamp self cremated itself. It was one lamp in a bandolier of 60 lamps in the village Christmas decoration. It was a surprise that the fuse went but at least the cremation ended before more serious damage was caused.

 

[JohnW2]

They tend to use a resistor, which will limits the short circuit current - a trick I sometimes use, where normal demand is low, but on a circuit with a relatively large current behind it. Resistors are much cheaper than fuses.

... and little bits of foil probably even cheaper. I can't say that I've seen resistors used - as I said,usually little bits of foil (which have usually ruptured by the time I dissect them). This one is not quite as flimsy as many are, but it's roughly the sort of thing I'm used to seeing ...

Kind Regards, John

 

[UseLeSsDiYr]

Thanks everyone for your replies.

It looks like there's less of a chance, but in any case better than what I was using (cheap filament bulbs) and less of a risk of them tripping the fusebox?

 

[UseLeSsDiYr]

This 20 Amp SN2 - HRC Fuse Link

View attachment 232848

was blown when a one Watt Golf Ball lamp self cremated itself. It was one lamp in a bandolier of 60 lamps in the village Christmas decoration. It was a surprise that the fuse went but at least the cremation ended before more serious damage was caused.

'Self cremated'?

That sounds bad. Did the bulb melt or something?

 

[JohnW2]

Thanks everyone for your replies. It looks like there's less of a chance, but in any case better than what I was using (cheap filament bulbs) and less of a risk of them tripping the fusebox?

Exactly. In my opinion (and experience) a lot less chance.

Kind Regards, John

 

[bernardgreen]

That sounds bad. Did the bulb melt or something?

I am not sure as to exactly what happened. The lights went out one evening and next day we found the fuse blown, replaced it and the bandolier came back on; When the lights were taken down there was one socket with only the metal bayonet cap from the lamp.

 

[Taylortwocities]

In a reliability league table, I think the OP may be wishing too much when comparing

cheap legacy filament bulbs

with

LED bulbs, from ebay or otherwise

Quality and reliability comes with a price tag.

 

[JohnW2]

Quality and reliability comes with a price tag.

Non necessarily these days - what now 'comes with a price tag' is often simply "a name which used to be the name of a highly respected manufacturer". MK comes to mind.

As I've said, in terms of LED lamps/bulbs (as well as a good few other things), my personal experience is that the cheapest and nastiest are not usually any less reliable than the most expensive.

Kind Regards, John

 

[UseLeSsDiYr]

Is it normal for LED bulbs to exhibit flickering when moving fast?

It doesn't flicker per se at a standstill, but when you move quickly, it seems there's some juddering - similar to monitors Hz?

Another example is running water from a tap; it seems as if it's slow motion. Can be quite nauseous.

Is this normal or maybe the quality of the bulbs?

 

[JohnW2]

Is it normal for LED bulbs to exhibit flickering when moving fast? It doesn't flicker per se at a standstill, but when you move quickly, it seems there's some juddering - similar to monitors Hz? Another example is running water from a tap; it seems as if it's slow motion. Can be quite nauseous. Is this normal or maybe the quality of the bulbs?

Yes, it's 'normal'.

Many/most mains-powered LEDs will have at least some 50 Hz or 100 Hz flicker (light intensity varying 50 or 100 times per second). That's usually not noticeable but will result in a 'stroboscopic' effect when viewing an illuminated rapidly moving object. Fluorescent tubes with 'old-fashioned' (not 'electronic') 'ballasts' in their fittings are much worse in that respect - and can be dangerous in workshops etc. because rapidly rotating tools/blades etc. can appear to be almost stationary.

Extra low voltage (e.g. 12V) LEDs will usually have an external power supply which the results in any 'flicker' being at thousands of times per second (not 50 or 100), so this effect is unlikely to be seen. Similarly with fluorescent tubes using modern 'electronic ballasts', for the same reasons.

This wasn't an issue with traditional (incandescent/filament) bulbs since, although the heating (by electricity) fluctuated 100 times per second, the filament essentially remained red/white hot 'continuously'.

Kind Regards, John