1. Visiting from the US? Why not try DIYnot.US instead? Click here to continue to DIYnot.US.
    Dismiss Notice

Installing new Rockdoor and side panels

Discussion in 'Windows and Doors' started by DorsetSi, 29 Mar 2021.

  1. DorsetSi

    DorsetSi

    Joined:
    28 Mar 2021
    Messages:
    2
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Hi Folks,

    I need a couple of tips for a front door I’m replacing which will have side and top glazed panels as well as the Rockdoor door frame/slab - very happy with the general approach to take but some areas have a few options which I can’t decide on.

    This will be checked by building control as part of a larger piece of work so doesn’t need to be FENSA registered, hence why I’m saving cash, I have a friend to assist who has done these before.

    Queries are:
    1. Photo hopefully attached of Rehau profile and aluminium coupler - I’m thinking a bead of silicon in the 4 areas I’ve marked with a red blob, to ensure no water ingress behind the plastic cover, and baypole screws (50mm?) through the Rehau on each side, ever so slightly off centre so as to keep away from the centre bump on the Rehau profile but still go through the centre part of the coupler (as marked in the picture) and stop before hitting the opposite Rehau. Right approach, wrong approach?

    2. The Rehau outer frame will have a steel reinforcement in it. Is this likely to cause a problem with the Baypole screws going through? I’m unclear where exactly this reinforcement is.

    3. Brick fixings - 110mm 7.5mm concrete screws on their own with a 6mm pilot hole (my thinking) or the frame screws with the plastic sheath?

    4. Damp - the cill will sit on brick with concrete next to it inside the house, and there is no cavity wall at this location and as far as I am aware no DPM. I don’t think I have the room to sit packers under the cill (apart from to ensure its level). I’m thinking a sheet of DPM under the cill and running above the brick and concrete to protect the laminate floor inside from any moisture hitting it.

    5. Packers - are bridge packers crucial for the bottom of the glazings rather than standard flat packers, for air or water flow?

    Greatly appreciate the advice folks.

    519D9F66-CC27-4527-AC73-7FC89A0F3C97.jpeg
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Sponsored Links
  3. Ian H

    Ian H

    Joined:
    14 Sep 2010
    Messages:
    7,037
    Thanks Received:
    859
    Location:
    Rochdale
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    I’ve done one.

    No.1 - I screwed it as you said but didn’t use silicone, reason being I thought any water that got past the trim would drain out onto the cill.

    No.2 - I had a few baypole screws fail when going through 2 lots of metal. I just binned the failed one and the next attempt with a fresh screw always worked.

    No.3 - I used the concrete screws, maybe a bit longer that the 110’s, I had the spacers VERY tight between the frame and bricks before putting the concrete screw through.

    No.4 - I put a single 4” strip of DPC u set the cill.

    No5 - I didn’t use bridge packers, the flat ones I used sat on a groove in the frame so water could pass under. I used the packers top, bottom and sides.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  4. DorsetSi

    DorsetSi

    Joined:
    28 Mar 2021
    Messages:
    2
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Greatly appreciated those comments Ian. I’ve had a read of your threads that you refer to and it looks a great job. I’ll be happy to have a similar quality after mine goes in shortly.
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  5. DIYnot Local

    DIYnot Local

    Joined:
    3 Sep 2019
    Country:
    United Kingdom

    If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

    Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


    Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

     
Loading...

Share This Page