Installing RT500RF to boiler - help!

[5cholsey]

I'm trying to fit a Salus RT500RF to my existing Ikon23T boiler which doesn't currently have a room thermostat.

Stupidly on my part I thought it would be as easy as connecting the external control lead(s) to the VOLTAGE FREE RECIEVER, not even thinking about power!

My boiler instructions state any room thermostat must be of the voltage free type which I have purchased (RT500RF).

Questions I have:

Is this a 230v AC or 24v installation?

My boiler as far as I can work out has two terminals for the thermostat(if this is the external control lead) and instructions say to remove link from boiler. How do I do this and where is link on boiler?

To get power do I just run power from the fused mains spur into the receiver, if do what's the correct way?

Do I seperate the wires currently linked together on the external white control lead, as boiler instructions state "the boiler will work for heating AS DELIVERED without a room thermostat fitted provided the two wires on the integral external controls lead REMAIN LINKED TOGETHER as supplied.

Receiver wiring terminals as follows

1: NO normally open [N/O]
2: COM linked live feed (230 AC only)
3: L Live feed (230v AC)
4: N Neutral

Please can anybody advise how I need to connect everything up, step by step, so that I don't make any costly mistakes?

I've looked at utube instructions, but not 100% sure.

Many Thanks in advance

 

[EFLImpudence]

My boiler instructions state any room thermostat must be of the voltage free type which I have purchased (RT500RF).

That means separate from the mains.

Questions I have:
Is this a 230v AC or 24v installation?

Both.
You will need 240V for the receiver to work and separate volt-free (likely 24V) from and to the boiler.

My boiler as far as I can work out has two terminals for the thermostat(if this is the external control lead) and instructions say to remove link from boiler. How do I do this and where is link on boiler?

Do you have the manual?

Instructions will have been supplied with the thermostat.

To get power do I just run power from the fused mains spur into the receiver, if do what's the correct way?

Yes. Usual way.

Do I seperate the wires currently linked together on the external white control lead, as boiler instructions state

Yes, if this is the correct cable.

"the boiler will work for heating AS DELIVERED without a room thermostat fitted provided the two wires on the integral external controls lead REMAIN LINKED TOGETHER as supplied.

You do not want that now.

Receiver wiring terminals as follows
1: NO normally open [N/O]
2: COM linked live feed (230 AC only)
3: L Live feed (230v AC)
4: N Neutral

No, it isn't. COM should not be linked.

1: NO - switched live to boiler (24V ?)
2: COM - feed from boiler (24V ?).
3: L Live feed (230V AC)
4: N Neutral feed (230V AC)
5: CPC (earth) safely terminated.

Where is the fused switch which controls the central heating?
Near the boiler?

 

[jackthom]

if the boiler states 'voltage free' then you are simply connecting the thermostat receiver as if it were a switch. So you DO NOT link the Live 230V to the COM terminal in the receiver.

I'm not sure about the boiler white control lead connected as a link.
Usually there are two terminals on the boiler PCB with a short wire link between them and you would remove this link and in it's place connect 2-core flex from the boiler to 'COM' and 'NO' on the stat receiver.

The receiver also needs Live and Neutral which as you say can come from the fused spur.

edit: Beaten to it.

 

[5cholsey]

Thanks for advice.

I think the white control lead is the 2-core lead you refer to so does it matter which lead is connected to 'COM' AND 'NO' on receiver as they are both same colour (black)?

The flex I would use to connect power from the spur to receiver is a power cable [90°c 300/300v CE 20-20]. Is this suitable or should I just use different cable?

Thanks

 

[5cholsey]

EFLImpudence - Yes, I have manuals for both devices and fused switch (mains fused spur) is in same place as boiler.

 

[EFLImpudence]

I think the white control lead is the 2-core lead you refer to so does it matter which lead is connected to 'COM' AND 'NO' on receiver as they are both same colour (black)?

No, either way.

The flex I would use to connect power from the spur to receiver is a power cable [90°c 300/300v CE 20-20]. Is this suitable or should I just use different cable?

Not sure, several types appear when Googled.

Just normal flex or twin+earth.

fused switch (mains fused spur) is in same place as boiler.

Ok, just connect to that so that everything is on the one switch.

You can fit the receiver next to it - if convenient.

 

[5cholsey]

Thank you again for advice and fast response. I will let you know how I get on.

 

[5cholsey]

Apologies, one quick question...

In regards to the short wire link from boiler. I have just read the manual and it states the following:

"The Ikon 23 t is delivered with an integral mains supply lead AND an intintegral external controls lead. The boiler will work for heating AS DELIVERED without a room thermostat fitted provided the two wires on the integral external controls lead REMAIN LINKED TOGETHER (as supplied)."

I've had a quick look and can't seem to see any short wire link as it seems a fixed unit, so my question is if I just split these two wires and connect up to COM AND NO, should that do the job?

I have a schematic wiring diagram, but it doesn't mean much to me!

 

[EFLImpudence]

I've had a quick look and can't seem to see any short wire link as it seems a fixed unit, so my question is if I just split these two wires and connect up to COM AND NO, should that do the job?

If they were joined then, yes.

There would be no need to have had these wires joined AND an internal kink.

 

[5cholsey]

I've just looked at the fused spur and want to check if I should be running power from the SUPPLY (mains) or from LOAD (boiler) connection?

I also want to make sure the power cable I will be using is correct so am I correct in thinking the thicker the better (ie I've got some mains cable we used to connect up additional electrical sockets around the house) or is this not suitable?

Thanks

 

[jackthom]

It MUST go from the LOAD side, otherwise it won't be switched or fused.

Make sure the boiler circuit breaker is switched off at the main consumer unit before doing any work.

The wiring will only carry a very small current so any mains quality flex will be fine. It doesn't require an Earth so twin core lighting flex would be ideal.

 

[5cholsey]

Thank You for everyone's help with this, much appreciated as all now installed and working