Installing slatwall on drywall

[arcon5]

I'm think about installing it myself but wondered whether others thought it could be done by a non-professional?

Ceiling height is approx 2.5m

This is how I imagine it would be done:

- use a stud detector to locate and mark where the studs are.
- install a batten over the dry wall securing to the studs (3 battens approx. 0.5m apart?)
- secure the slat wall to the battens

Does this method sound about right?

The only difficult bits I forsee are where the wall protrudes about 12" at 2 points. In which case I would use a circular saw to slice a sheet of slat wall (facing down) to size and use a corner insert to cover the cut.

Any thoughts?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

If you are installing more than one sheet of slatwall in line then it becomes imperative that the grounds (battens) you fix onto are level, plumb and in line. If not you are on a hiding to nothing getting them in neatly. The best way I know to achieve this is to is a combination of a string line and a 6ft level (yes, I have a laser line and it isn't the best way). Wherever possible I prefer to go onto 2 x 2in stock as it is fairly rigid and much easier to square-up. A 2 x 2 frame can also be used to take out any unevenness in the wall and in your case I'd consider pulling out the wall line to completely cover the wall protrusions (BTW, are these boxings?). For stud walls the slatwalls need to be supported on horizontal grounds. One of these needs to be at the very bottom of the wall (at floor level) and it must be dead level, not following the lime of the floor. Another needs to be at or near the top with the in-betweeners spaced at something like 600mm intervals vertically to prevent the slatwall from flapping around too much. The slatwall panels should be screwed onto the grounds through the bottoms of the grooves so that the screw heads can be hidden - for black-painted grooves without a plastic insert I find that black carcass screws disappear nicely, otherwise if using a plastic insert that will hide the screw heads although care does need to be taken to countersink the screwheads so that the fillier strip will bed properly. Either way the bottom of the slatwalls must be absolutely level and not follow the floor line. Don't be tempted to scribe the bottoms if the floor level runs out a long way, instead cover it with a piece of skirting or edged MF-MDF

I install these quite a bit and TBH it isn't rocket science, but it does take a finicky approach to succeed