Installtion of a CU isolator

[asterisk]

From the Reference section:

If you need to add a consumer unit, or change the existing one, the best course of action would be to call the Regional Electricity Company (REC), and ask them to fit (or install one yourself and ask them to wire in) an isolator that is fitted inbetween the tails from the meter and the CU itself.

Is the isolator mentioned, in the case that it is provided by the end user, just a 2 way enclosure with a 100A isolator (examples below) or something more?

From TLC-direct (MK parts):
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK5500.html
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK5502.html

Screwfix (Wylex Parts):
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=53010&ts=27299
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=32311&ts=27231
Screwfix (MK parts):
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=27372&id=80187
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=27371&id=95875

 

[dingbat]

None of the above.

The isolator is a stand-alone dual-pole switch. Try telephoning your regional electricity company and asking them if they will supply one.

 

[plugwash]

nothing wrong with useing a CU style isolateing switch in a modular box assumeing the rec won't fit an isolator provided by them

btw the difference between an isolator and an isolateing switch is an isolateing switch is intended to be switched with current flowing

 

[dingbat]

nothing wrong with useing a CU style isolating switch in a modular box assuming the rec won't fit an isolator provided by them

I'd agree, except I've come across many small modular boxes that simply do not allow you to easily route 25 sq mmm tails to make a connection - quite often there simply isn't the room. Far better (If the rec won't supply) is to use one that allows the user's terminations to be made without having to dismantle the unit.

 

[asterisk]

Good job I asked then

I read another post the other day from someone else who's with Southern Electric that SE wouldn't fit one. I'll give them a call later and ask.

If they don't provide one where can you get them.

Thanks for all the replies.

 

[dingbat]

If they don't provide one where can you get them.

Try any local electrical wholesaler - explain exactly what you want it for and examine it before you buy, so you are sure you know what goes where.

 

[asterisk]

Thanks Dingbat.
I'll check with the REC first to be sure. They'll be getting them to move the meter so it's not like they'll coming out just to fit the isolating switch.

 

[dingbat]

They may well supply a meter with built in 'contractors' isolator, the terminals of which can be accessed without breaking any seals.

 

[esox]

Am I right in thinking that if I choose a cooker to 3 KW I can just connect it to the mains via a plug socket as this would solve all my problems as my hob is gas.

 

[securespark]

Yes, asterisk.

You are right. A min. 100A DP switch in a dinrail enclosure is fine. I have used a Merlin Gerin 125A switch in mine (in case the rec ever offer 125A supply) The switch in question is just a din rail type iso used in CU's.

Norweb never took a second sniff at it: they were fine with it.