Insulating a polycarbonate conservatory roof

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I'm looking at insulating my conservatory roof sharpish as a 2nd long winter of it being my office does not appeal. Looking elsewhere I've ordered 15m2 or SuperQuilt, and I'll be sandwiching it, stapled, between two lengths of 25x38 roofing lath, fixed to the existing uPVC frame. Then I'll probably cover in fairly cheap tongue and groove cladding (as I don't like the idea / hassle of plastering it) whilst trying to ensure it doesn't look like a naff sauna. I think I'm fine with almost all the work but some queries I have are...

1) Ventilation. I don't *think* I need to make any concession for airflow between the existing roof and the SuperQuilt do I? If I did though, it'd be external ventilation, not from the internal space, right? Seems that as SuperQuilt is a guaranteed moisture barrier, and the place is perfectly dry at present, there's no need?

2) Finishing the bottom edge. I'm not sure quite how it'll connect the various parts to the chunky uPVC frame that connects the windows to the roof, but if there was a narrow gap internally, would it invalidate the insulation a lot or only a relatively small amount? I think the T&G would eventually come lower that the top of this frame, so visibly hit the front of it, rather than disappear above it, so I'd just put sealant along that line? Or nothing? - it's not like the T&G would be airtight in general anyway...

3) Noise. The rain, right now, is very very loud in here. This little project should happily also make it much quieter, right?
 
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Makes some strange claims , reduction in radiant heat loss of 86%.?
There would be little or no radiant heat in a conservatory, all would be convection from the rest of the home assuming direct connection.
 
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Makes some strange claims , reduction in radiant heat loss of 86%.?
There would be little or no radiant heat in a conservatory, all would be convection from the rest of the home assuming direct connection.
the oil radiators I surround myself might currently disagree!
 
Oil-filled radiators absolutely DO NOT radiate any significant heat, it's virtually all by convection.

"Multi-foil" insulation is bordering on snake-oil IMHO.
 
2) Finishing the bottom edge. I'm not sure quite how it'll connect the various parts to the chunky uPVC frame that connects the windows to the roof, but if there was a narrow gap internally, would it invalidate the insulation a lot or only a relatively small amount? I think the T&G would eventually come lower that the top of this frame, so visibly hit the front of it, rather than disappear above it, so I'd just put sealant along that line? Or nothing? - it's not like the T&G would be airtight in general anyway...
?

I don't entirely understand all that - a diagram would help.
But a gap at the bottom would allow cold air out (cold air falls). If it's an issue you'll feel a cold draught there. Presumnly at that point you could find some way to seal it up.
 
I don't entirely understand all that - a diagram would help.
But a gap at the bottom would allow cold air out (cold air falls). If it's an issue you'll feel a cold draught there. Presumnly at that point you could find some way to seal it up.

Well in the photo, the first length of lath will go above the top of the upright section, adding a second it'll just hit the front. So I'd guess I'd want to tape the insulation to the top of the frame to start the job off, then staple it up the roof, in order to make a decent enough seal.... as I can attempt to seal it completely? If it's properly sealed then there'd be nowhere for a draught to come from, other than between the insulation and T&G which wouldn't be airtight at any point anyway. so with T&G fixed horizontally, the first piece merely butts up against the front of the frame, and there shoudl be no need to, for example, run silicone along the edge, as there shoudl be nothign to protect from.
 

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I think I'd want something that had certified insulation capabilities expressed as a thermal resistance R Value, rather than a percentage. Have you considered 25mm Celotex sheets or thicker? Its probably lighter than the blanket idea.
 
I think I'd want something that had certified insulation capabilities expressed as a thermal resistance R Value, rather than a percentage. Have you considered 25mm Celotex sheets or thicker? Its probably lighter than the blanket idea.
I read people having concerns about moisture with Celotex. No knowledge of it using it myself though TBH.
 

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