Insulating uneven gap around door

[Igloo]

Hi,
I've got a front door in need of insulation but the gap varies from 1mm (perhaps even less) to a scary 8mm. It covers all the numbers in between as well.

Rather than buy two different thicknesses of insulation, can some recommend one that will expand from 1mm to 8mm?

I've had a look around but found myself very confused and wondered if anyone knew of a simple solution?

Many thanks

 

[stevethejoiner]

I use the following method to install draught stripping around metal casement windows and I am sure it will work for your situation.

Clean the frame's rebate with sugar soap, rinse and dry well. Use a hair dryer if necessary to be sure it is spotlessly clean and dry. Smother the closing faces of the door with washing up liquid or clear oil. Apply a nice bead of silicone to the frame's rebate. Gently close the door onto the bead of silicone. Do not pull the door in too tight, but tight enough so it can lock. DO NOT open the door until the silicone has gone hard, possibly leave it overnight. However you could carefully remove excess silicone ooze out while still wet or simply leave it and knife off when dry.
The washing up liquid will act as a releasing agent and I guarantee the silicone will not have adhered to the face of the door, as long as you applied enough washing up liquid that is. But it will have stuck like s..t to a blanket to the rebate of the frame giving you a fantastic rubber seal, and irrelevant to how uneven the gap is as you will have applied additional silicone to the wider gaps.
How tidy the job is depends on your skill at applying silicone.
You can buy paintable silicones now as well which helps the finish.

Steve.

 

[stevethejoiner]

I should have said. If there is a water bar you can also apply the silicone in reverse. Apply silicone to the doors bottom rebate and washing up liquid to the face of the water bar. I do not put the silicone directly on the water bar because of foot traffic.
If you do the above you should have a door with a 100% seal, with the added benefit of a soft close.

 

[foxhole]

Steves method can work, I use a strip of polythene over the sealant, then close door on this as it guarantees no sticking sealant.
If you have large gaps ideally you don't attempt to fill them you form another seal on the outside with a door seal or use a book fold seal on the inner edge which accommodates up to about 10mm gap.
The V profile on this page, available in rubber or semi rigid plastic, self adhesive.
The screw on external draught strips are probably the most effective and easy to diy.

 

[Igloo]

Many thanks for the replies. Silicone sounds a bit more daunting than foam sticky tape or something like that! I've recently siliconed round a bath and didn't find it that much fun . . .

Can I use any silicone or does it have to be a particular type?

Thanks again

 

[stevethejoiner]

There are loads of different silicone products, just look at http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/?WT.svl=1
site.
I do not remember the product code for the Dowcorning silicone we use, I can look tomorrow at some tomorrow to let you know. But as a tradesman I had to use the best product for the job and we have to order it specially, in boxes of 24, as it was not a product that any of the "sheds" or local builders merchants stock. But for a one off any good builders silicone should do, ideally a medium modulus.

I can understand your concern with applying silicone, and sealing around a bath is probably one of the most difficult jobs to do, not only are you sitting up close to the the finished job and any imperfection is exaggerated, you have two edges at right angles to get straight, and then taps to get past.

A tip! When applying silicone a proper skeleton application gun is a must, don't try using a tooth paste type product if you want a nice bead finish.

Steve.

 

[Igloo]

Thanks for the info.

I used a applicator gun on the bath - dread to think how it would have turned out if I hadn't! Good builders' silicone should be okay to find - may even have some about! Although I suspect a trip to Wickes or B&Q will be in order.

I think it's a fair point about not seeing silicone around a door close up the way you would around a bath. Will have to see if I can pluck up courage now!

Thanks again

 

[Igloo]

Another couple of questions related to this query:

1. If the silicone application goes wrong , is it easy enough to just peel off when dry?

2. The door has quite a rattle on it at present and doesn't sit back in the frame but is a bit forward, ie. it leans against the lock/bolt when it's closed and not against the frame. Will the silicone help sort this out or will it make it worse?

Many thanks.

 

[stevethejoiner]

Another couple of questions related to this query:

1. If the silicone application goes wrong , is it easy enough to just peel off when dry?

2. The door has quite a rattle on it at present and doesn't sit back in the frame but is a bit forward, ie. it leans against the lock/bolt when it's closed and not against the frame. Will the silicone help sort this out or will it make it worse?

Many thanks.

Answer...If you have prepared and cleaned the frame rebate properly then unfortunately no, but you could knife it off when dry. If it came off easy it would not last long

Yes the silicone will help as it will fill the gap between the rebate and where the door fails to touch, and it will not make the problem worse as any excess will simply be pushed to the side for cutting or wiping off, and so will not stop the door closing.

I am also in Kent, if you are somewhere close and as it is not a big job I may be able to offer free help .
Steve.

 

[Igloo]

Hi, many thanks for another reply!

And thanks also for the offer of help We live out in the sticks though, just past the back of beyond, so don't worry on that front

Fair point about not wanting the silicone to come out too easily