Iona Oil Boiler: Burner Lockout

[JonathanTaylor]

Hi,

I have an Iona oil fired boiler, which I think was fitted approx 5 years ago. I have been in this house 9 months, so I am not sure when/if it was serviced last.

It has been working OK since I have lived here, but the burner lockout light has started turning on. When the boiler clicks on, it runs for about 5 mins before the lockout light comes on. If I reset it, it will then run for a further couple of minutes before the lockout light comes on again.

I have plenty of oil in the tank and I guess it is reaching the burner, because before the lockout light comes on, the boiler is getting warm.

Any ideas as to what the problem may be?

 

[JonathanTaylor]

Quick update: I have cleaned the photo-resister and the filter at the oil tank, but that made no difference.

A bit more detail on when lockout light comes on :

1. I can hear the burner burning OK.
2. The noise changes - it sounds like the burner stops burning, but air is still being pumped to the burner.
3. After maybe 5-10 seconds of no burning, the lockout light clicks on.

I have tried it several times throughout the course of cleaning the photo-resister and filter, and so far it has followed the same pattern every time.

 

[MANDATE]

The fact that everything seems in order at start up, makes me suspect the solenoid. Most likely a break in the coil windings.
When cold it may well work, but due to heat it soon expands, becomes open circuit and stops working until it has cooled off again.

 

[JonathanTaylor]

Thanks Mandate.

I read another post (//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=229348) that said I can diagnose if it is the coil by using a muiltimeter across the two parallel pins behind the plug in the coil. Cold, it reads 2.1k, after firing up and the burner lockout coming on it reads 2.4k.

Does this indicate it is the coil for sure?

The coil is a Danfoss, part number 071N0051 (I understand now superceded by 071N0010).

 

[outinthestix]

If you are getting the reading immediately after lockout then it's probably not the coil. First check there are no more filters in the fuel line. There will be a filter in the fuel pump, if you tell us which burner or pump you have we can help more.
You also need to undo the flexi fuel pipe going to the fuel pump to make sure there is a good flow of oil. Once this is certain other things can be checked. Stix.

 

[JonathanTaylor]

The pump is a Danfoss BFP11 R3. The burner is a TRIANCO 550104/21 MINOR 4TC EUROSTAR 100/125.

I undid the flexipipe and the oil flow to the fuel pump seems fine.

 

[JonathanTaylor]

My earlier post ref multimeter results was wrong, I just re-did the test. Immediately after lockout, the multimeter is just showing "1" (off the scale I guess) - then after a minute or so it comes back onto the scale and quickly drops back to the 2.4k.

Does this indicate it is the coil for sure?

 

[outinthestix]

To check the pump filter turn the oil supply off, then undo the four allen bolts with a 4mm allen key, one on each corner of the pump face plate. Dont mess with the allen plugs on the side of the pump at this stage as one of the ports adjusts the pump pressure which you dont want to do.
Also clean and check the photocell very closely as any crack in the glass means its faulty.
If not serviced recently it would be worth having it done now as a competant technician can check the pump pressure and how it's burning. It could be a faulty cell, c. box, nozzle, solenoid (?), pump, or just all need cleaning and setting up which will need a fuel gauge and analyser and the knowledge of how to use it. Hope this helps.

 

[outinthestix]

Just read your last post. It is the coil then. Stix.

 

[JonathanTaylor]

Thanks very much for your help Stix

 

[Matt Taylor]

Hi, can anyone still help me with a issue with the same boiler / burner mentioned above.
working on one today i have found a fault with the fan motor or atleast i think it is. after reseting the burner the fan does not run but trys to, the electrodes also start sparking.
in thinking i have a fan motor failure or a blocked pump. is parts for a TRIANCO 550104/21 MINOR 4TC EUROSTAR 100/125 still available. . Many Thanks. Matt

 

[Burnerman]

Try www.hwos.co.uk for a motor.......it could be M113/3.
It could be worth finding out if the pump and motor spin easily first though, and consider a capacitor fault.
John

 

[Matt Taylor]

Hi John, thanks for quick reply.
i was on site earlier, the fan wheelhead seemed very stiff, would hard spin when moved manually, would stop soon after if not immediately. when pressing reset button you could see the fan try to move, which then also the electrodes started sparking. which i always thought the fan had to be fully operating before his ignition step started.
stuck between the fan motor or capacitor.

 

[Burnerman]

The ignition sequence starts immediately, and doesn't stop until the burner flame has been established, even when the motor/ fan is turning to purge the flue with fresh air right at the beginning of its cycle.
The motor should spin really easily (on its own)..... If it doesn't then it could be a bearing getting tight.
The oil pump is slightly stiffer to turn by hand, although perfectly possible. It shouldn't have any tight spots.
If it was mine, I'd try the motor on its own, on the bench. It should start straight away and you shouldn't be able to stop the spinning spindle with your fingers. The motor should be quiet, too.
If it doesn't start, or the shaft seems to oscillate a bit, suspect the capacitor.
John

 

[Matt Taylor]

Thanks for your help John.
Am i right in saying when you buy the motor complete/housing you get the capacitor attached also?
matt