Is glue used in vinyl planks?

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I need to have the vinyl floor planks lifted. Do they just click together, or is glue used in the clicking mechanism?

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That all depends on the type you buy. I prefer those that click together; less mess. Some you'll have to use adhesive. It'll tell you on the pack which one is which.
 
These are clicked ones. I am asking if glue is used in additional to the click.
 
They all click - some require glue, some do not. Does the backing look like it could use a coat of glue?
 
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Never mind. The floor layer did lift them according to my request to make alterations. Those planks must be the pure click type. When I was looking at them, I felt some stickiness around the click-able areas. So, I was concerned they applied glue to the click, making the planks not lift-able.
 
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Never mind. The floor layer did lift them according to my request to make alterations. Those planks must be the pure click type. When I was looking at them, I felt some stickiness around the click-able areas. So, I was concerned they applied glue to the click, making the planks not lift-able.

They look like dry click, laid over Thermoplastics?

About the only subfloor you can easily get away without joint issues. Any click floors we install, we level in the same way a dry back or glue down LVT is fitted, if the floor is'nt dead flat, the joints fail very easily on the click LVT's.

Give it a generous expansion gap, click LVT's love to move.
 
The under lay is 20 year old square vinyl tiles glued on concrete.

Is there such thing as a wet click? That was what I was concerned about originally. The thin vinyl planks come with their own (probably rubber) underlay. They are this: https://www.toppstiles.co.uk/rigid-core-luxury-vinyl-tiles/owsten-grey-herringbone-luxury-vinyl-tile

I am not aware of a wet click LVT tile. In our experience in the trade and feedback from customers that have given it 'a go' there seem to be as many if not more pitfalls of installing click LVT incorrectly than Laminate and Engineered Wood. Almost all issues I have come across are with consumers buying the product believing it will cover a multitude of subfloor issues when in reality, they joints - with an in-built underlay or not- are very slim and very easy to break on an uneven subfloor.

The tiles in your photo are just about the most perfect subfloor finish provided none are broken/chipped but trying to lay click LVT over floorboards for example is likely to be troublesome.
 
Before the reflooring, I had laminate that I did myself. It was tongue and groove that I glued. This was where I got the "wet click" idea from. I had no problems with the laminate as a first-time DIY layer. The vinyl planks are less than half as thick as the old laminate. I would not be surprised if the new planks are flimsy. There were some broken old under-tiles. I doubt the floor layer cared and carried on regardless. I will be selling the flat. So, it will be the next guy's problem if the floor falls apart.
 
Before the reflooring, I had laminate that I did myself. It was tongue and groove that I glued. This was where I got the "wet click" idea from. I had no problems with the laminate as a first-time DIY layer. The vinyl planks are less than half as thick as the old laminate. I would not be surprised if the new planks are flimsy. There were some broken old under-tiles. I doubt the floor layer cared and carried on regardless. I will be selling the flat. So, it will be the next guy's problem if the floor falls apart.
When you glue laminate planks, some of the glue goes into the HDF boarding, the rest squeezes out the joint, with Click LVT it will either clog the joint or all squeeze out. The glue sticks the joint together but doesn't make it more self supporting so over a hollow etc the much thinner tongue of the LVT is far more susceptible to creaking and cracking/splitting.
 

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