The old (40 years+) ball valve in the cold water cistern in our loft needs replacing - a slight leak to the overflow. I had intended to do it but a health problem means that I have been asking plumbers for quotes for a non-urgent repair, mentioning the replacement fill valve a Fluidmaster PRO75B] that I have bought.
One plumber has replied "You cannot put the fluidmaster on there." and when I asked why, wrote "Water regs do not allow you to fit a part 4 fill valve to a cold water storage cistern. The Fluidmaster PRO75B is a part 4 valve. You have to fit a part 2 valve."
On the box of the Fluidmaster is written "For use in a toilet cistern or storage tank" and "Anti-syphon prevents contamination"; none of the websites that I have seen suggest that it is unsuitable. Is the plumber mistaken (and/or drumming up trade) in suggesting that I should "book in to supply and fit a part 2 fill valve"?
I'm attaching some photos, one of which shows that the inlet is well above the overflow outlet, so there should not be a backflow risk. (n.b. the shiny screw in the close-up has temporarily replaced a copper split-pin that disintegrated when I tried to remove it.)
[I know that cheaper valves are available, but chose the Fluidmaster as it has a brass connection and seemed easier to service and more reliable than some. I don't want to return it to my local merchant if it is suitable, which is the question that I'm asking.]
One plumber has replied "You cannot put the fluidmaster on there." and when I asked why, wrote "Water regs do not allow you to fit a part 4 fill valve to a cold water storage cistern. The Fluidmaster PRO75B is a part 4 valve. You have to fit a part 2 valve."
On the box of the Fluidmaster is written "For use in a toilet cistern or storage tank" and "Anti-syphon prevents contamination"; none of the websites that I have seen suggest that it is unsuitable. Is the plumber mistaken (and/or drumming up trade) in suggesting that I should "book in to supply and fit a part 2 fill valve"?
I'm attaching some photos, one of which shows that the inlet is well above the overflow outlet, so there should not be a backflow risk. (n.b. the shiny screw in the close-up has temporarily replaced a copper split-pin that disintegrated when I tried to remove it.)
[I know that cheaper valves are available, but chose the Fluidmaster as it has a brass connection and seemed easier to service and more reliable than some. I don't want to return it to my local merchant if it is suitable, which is the question that I'm asking.]
