Is leaking toilet safe?

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Armagh
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We recently had the toilet installed back into the utility room toilet room after the floor was tiled. However, there seems to be a very slight leak where the copper pipe connects to the cistern. Water seems to gather on top of the bolt that is attached to the plastic part of the cistern. See photo here.

When I dry this off it takes about 10-15 minutes for water to be visible again so I know it's leaking very slowly. Is this something to be worried about? If so how do I establish the problem and in turn fix it?
 
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You will need to get it fixed when the chance arises. What you have there is a 1/2 inch tap connector inside that there should be a fibrewasher, is there 1 there ?. If not simply purchase one and put it in. If there is 1 already there check to see if its split or damaged, either way replace it imo. Another possibility could be the connector isnt screwed on properly i.e slightly off centre because that pipe to me looks like it is slightly pulling. It need to connect square and without any undue stress on it.
 
Could it be possibly that the bolt is on the wrong thread of the plastic part? Or would there be a bigger leak if it was on the wrong thread?
 
blueharvester said:
We recently had the toilet installed back into the utility room toilet room after the floor was tiled. However, there seems to be a very slight leak where the copper pipe connects to the cistern. Water seems to gather on top of the bolt that is attached to the plastic part of the cistern. See photo here.

When I dry this off it takes about 10-15 minutes for water to be visible again so I know it's leaking very slowly. Is this something to be worried about? If so how do I establish the problem and in turn fix it?

It's one of three things, the nut on the tap connector to the ball valve tail, has cross threaded. The fibre washer on the tap conn as split, or been left off. or the ball valve is not seated correctly inside the cistern, via the back nut on the outside of the cistern, nine times out of ten, on a new valve, it's normally cross threaded and or split through over tightening, remove the valve, and replace it, ensuring the nut goes up straight, and do not over tighten it.
If after that it still let's by (leaks) check the other things what i have said, if it still leaks, change the valve.
 
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I dont quite understand what you are trying to say tbh, but if your asking is the tap connector supposed to be connecting in that way then the answer is yes.
 
pointman said:
It's one of three things, the nut on the tap connector to the ball valve tail, has cross threaded. The fibre washer on the tap conn as split, or been left off. or the ball valve is not seated correctly inside the cistern, via the back nut on the outside of the cistern, nine times out of ten, on a new valve, it's normally cross threaded and or split through over tightening, remove the valve, and replace it, ensuring the nut goes up straight, and do not over tighten it.
If after that it still let's by (leaks) check the other things what i have said, if it still leaks, change the valve.
I think it may well be that the valve has been cross threaded. If so, is it possible to replace only the valve or does everything inside the cistern need replaced as well? What I'm trying to say is that can you buy valves separately and then replace them?
 
right...
Firstly try and tighten the nut, see if the leak stops..if not then listen on..

you need to listen to welshman, close off the supply from the service valve in the picture. Check the fibre washer and the state it is in. If none is present, then u need to head to a plumbers merchant and get yourself one for a 1/2" cistern connection. If it is intact, i.e. no cracks etc, then get yourself some ptfe tape. Wrap a generous amount around the bottom part of the plastic inlet vavle, then connect the copper pipe back on making sure you don't overtighten.

If all fails...still...then u need to replace the inlet valve inside ur cistern...this can only be purchased as a whole im afraid so depending on what is existent inside ur cistern, go out and get urself another...
 
Yes - you can get all the bits separately. The DIY sheds do a limited range of stuff, but you'd be better off going to a decent plumbers merchant ( I'm not sure if PTS is in N.Ireland) or you could try BES Mail Order (www.bes.co.uk). They are brilliant at getting stuff to you the next day and have vast stucks of everything.
 
Yeah, thats what i said". Danny the londoner is the name, pointless writing it twice.
 
Woo ya wouldn't catch me swimming in it ............ Imagine if some water had escaped & you jump from the top diving board ......... Ya could get hurt ;)

WelshMan said:
that pipe to me looks like it is slightly pulling.

That pipe is Yissed as a newt ;)
 
pointman said:
Yeah, thats what i said". Danny the londoner is the name, pointless writing it twice.

hmm...weird, i didnt refresh ma screen so couldn't see all posts..
wudn't have wasted ma time otherwise!!!
Sorrry geeeeeza!
 
Guys, I just want to double check then that this is the cistern valve that I can replace and that I can simply disconnect it with a normal spanner?
 
blueharvester said:
Guys, I just want to double check then that this is the cistern valve that I can replace and that I can simply disconnect it with a normal spanner?

yes the part you are pointing out is the inlet valve and yes it needs replacing, it will disconnect with a normal spanner...
but you cant just set out to replace the bottom part of the cold water inlet valve....you need to get the part as a whole, so like i previously stated, depending on what u have in ur cistern already, go out and get another....you can either have:

a torbeck valve
p4511902_l.jpg


a ball valve (the orange float is purchased separately):
p1812512_l.jpg


or a compact inlet valve:
p2938455_l.jpg


all instructions will be included with the new part and it'll be a doddle to fit..plus it'll only cost you around a fiver from a plumbers merchant...

good luck and god bless
 

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