Is my replacement Honeywell V4073 faulty

[chargoi]

I have read many of the forums regarding this item.
I recently moved in with my partner and during June this year I noticed when the water was on also heating was on fully.
On inspection I noticed the motor was missing and some internal wires in the body were disconnected.

i managed to play around with it to get it to do HW only!
Due to the cost of a new one i bought a second hand one from Ebay and installed it . i now notice that when I select "manual on the leaver it heats water but also the radiators.

Am I doing something wrong or is it likely that the "second hand" unit is faulty somehow?

Before installed it I did check the ball valve and it looked like the internal motor was moving it from HW to HW and CH

Any ideas please?

 

[Agile]

The lever is for servicing and should be left free in normal use!

You select the function at the programmer!

Tony

 

[chargoi]

Thank you for your speedy reply.

The controller in the kitchen is a old randall 103 and all it has is 2 settings for ON and two for OFF.

Does this mean that I have to have CH on as well if I just want HW?

 

[kirkgas]

the idea of a zone valve is to allow you to have at least hot water only (some allow heating only ) but if you must have both then you would not use any valve as there is no point, so either the valve is faulty (why would anyone have a second hand valve to sell?) or you have not wired it up correctly or the original wiring is not configured for this type of valve (perhaps the reason for the alterations to your original valve) depending on your skill set you need to check all the wiring out slowly and carefully and trace back to the junction box etc to see what you have/need. be careful with the 240v stuff it is nippy

 

[chargoi]

Thankyou kirkgas. I cant remember exactly what explanation was given to why the item was for sale =--- i bought it end of June but at the time it sounded genuine enough --- He was a reputable Ebay seller.

I am in the Domestic Appliance Repair trade (13 yrs) so know how "Nippy" 240V can be!

The original valve was not the removable head type --- as I found out when I tried to unscrew the body!!!!
Each wire was removed in turn (there was a colour change on one wire)
and replaced with corresponding wire for new valve.
I placed the leaver in the manual position and rose up and locked into position. This I thought would give HW only.
When the power is on I notice the leaver drops slightly. Is this normal? Also hot water starts travelling through CH heating side also.
Could I get away with removing the live and neutral feed to the valve for the rest of the summer -- so the port stays in the HW selection or is the valve faulty?

Give me a wiring diagram for a cooker or washing machine then I have no problem but this little blighter has me baffled!!!

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[twgas]

When the power is on I notice the leaver drops slightly

is this with both HW and CH turned off at prog

 

[chargoi]

Twgas --- The programmer is a old Randall 103 -- two settings for ON and OFF -- so cant switch between HW only and HW & CH. This is why I thought I could manually select manual for HW only

 

[twgas]

IIRC the 103 has a three position rocker switch, middle pos is off, also turn the advance dial (top right) to blue.
http://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/instructions/103.pdf

 

[chargoi]

How will this give me HW only?

 

[twgas]

It wont, but it may give us some clues as to whether your valve is wired correctly.
To select HW only, you will need to turn the system on and the roomstat down

 

[chargoi]

Just done as requested --- advance dial to blue, room thermostat to minimum and switched rocker to on. After a few minutes hot water was flowing through both ports. Manual lever on valve in far right position and dropped down (not in upper lock position)

 

[twgas]

sounds like the valve is faulty or wired wrong.
Do you have the ability to check voltages in the wiring centre/junction box?

 

[chargoi]

Yes i have a AVO so can easily check voltages. What do you suggest I do?

 

[twgas]

with HW on (prog on, cyl stat up, room stat down) there should be 240v on orange, 0v on grey and white.

 

[kirkgas]

with the power off there is resistance when pushing the lever over, when powered up the lever will move very easily, unfortunately if it moves easily when on it only proves there is power not which "side" has power, do you have a wiring diagram for this? if not, check Honeywell site where you will get great diagrams. don't know the clock you have but don't understand why you cant get hot water only as that is the most basic function.
with the room stat off the heating side is closed so there should be no flow, so there is either a wiring fault or debris in the valve stopping it closing.