Is there a Honeywell V4043 2 zonevalve in 22mm with 6 wires?

Joined
5 Mar 2010
Messages
29
Reaction score
0
Location
Fife
Country
United Kingdom
I was about to start the wiring for converting my system to the C Plan.

Bought a Honeywell V4043H1056/U 22mm 2 port zone valve (normally closed).

Unfortunately it only has 5 wires, and is missing the extra contact on the microswitch that I need for my system. (No White Wire)

The microswitch is a SPST not SPDT that I require.

I see plenty of 28mm valves that have the 6 wires, but have not found any in 22mm.

Any help much appreciated.
 
Sponsored Links
Alternatively could I use a 28mm zone valve in my 22mm system with some sort of adaptor?
 
I don't know of a 22mm valve with the extra white wire,and yes it would be ok to use 28 on a 22 pipe with a couple of reducers.Are your hot water primaries 22mm?
 
I wonder if you could fit a spare motor head from a 28mm onto a 22mm valve body?

the 28mm is surpisingly expensive :(
 
Sponsored Links
You can get an actuator from BES with six wires that will fit 22mm valve.

Reason why 28mm valve has 6 wires is that 28mm valve would have been used on 28mm primaries to the cylinder and C plan made sense. Also no pump as circulation was by gravity and 28mm valve offered less resistance to water flow than 22mm valve

Nowadays, you would be lucky if primaries are even 22mm and almost unlikely you will have gravity circulation on majority of HW cylinder. Most of these have large coils for rapid water heating making them unsuitable for gravity circulation.
 
Thanks for all the replies!

@45yearsagasman
Yes primaries are 22mm on the boiler.

@JohnD - I don't know, but the spare heads seem about as expensive as the whole 22mm unit I bought (Paid about £25 on eBay).

@DP
Thanks I will investigate the BES price.

Anyone want a 22mm Honeywell? :oops:
I need the other o/p to feed boiler when valve is not energised (if CH room stat is on demand). [I am using the Honeywell C Plan].
 
Ok guys thanks, I have bought a 28mm valve with actuator on eBay, for less than many are charging for just the actuator.

Will probably use the 28mm with reducers and flog the 22mm. Alternatively I could swop the actuators.
 
Reason why 28mm valve has 6 wires is that 28mm valve would have been used on 28mm primaries to the cylinder and C plan made sense. Also no pump as circulation was by gravity and 28mm valve offered less resistance to water flow than 22mm valve

Nowadays, you would be lucky if primaries are even 22mm and almost unlikely you will have gravity circulation on majority of HW cylinder. Most of these have large coils for rapid water heating making them unsuitable for gravity circulation.

OK, my system is rather ancient - a Stelrad Ideal Mexico with pumped CH only (with TRVs). HWC is a primatic single feed.

I recently upgraded the control system to use a remote thermostat/programmer and that works well, but I need to add a valve to stop the hot water getting too hot when boiler is on full blast in winter. I have the tank stat fitted ready.
 
adding the valve and stat for the HW circuit will improve economy, especially in summer. Making it fully pumped would be even better, and heat the cylinder faster, but need more piping work.

remember to insulate the pipes to the cylinder well
 
adding the valve and stat for the HW circuit will improve economy, especially in summer. Making it fully pumped would be even better, and heat the cylinder faster, but need more piping work.

remember to insulate the pipes to the cylinder well

Thanks for the reminder John, I will have to add some insulation on the pipes as there is none at all.
 
I think you need to take advise on fitting valves etc to cylinder as cylinder essentially acts as feed and expansion vessel, so fitting of valves, restrictions tec is a no no- others will say otherwise if they know better.

Also, you cannot have pumped primaries to a primatic cylinder.

Best option is get shot of cylinder, fit new one and instal F+E tank in loft. Also convert to fully pumped by fitting a three port valve.

As a stop gap, fit a cylinderstat for hot water temperature control during summer months when heating is off or little needed
 
Thanks, had plumber round this afternoon and advises it is fine to fit zone valve in the return from the tank. He was taking a simplistic view of the wiring problem v the 5 wire actuator, fortunately he is happy to leave the wiring to me, and I am happy to leave the plumbing to him.

Only pumping CH side.

Yes, I have cylinder stat in operation already ( worked fine in summer).
 
primatic? didn't notice that.

yes, good idea to change to a modern cylinder and go fully pumped. It will heat faster and use less gas as it will be foam-insulated and the pipes will not be hot for as long.

If it was me I would also give it a chemical clean as soon as you have made the change.
 
Yes John it is already foam lagged ( it was replaced a few years ago with another primatic).

Edit: See your point about pipes.
I'm really happy with the system which has been virtually fault free for over 20 years unlike modern complex systems which may be more efficient but require constant repairs judging by my friends and relatives experience.

The plumber that called said he has the same boiler and would never replace it.
 
:) I meant for such a long time

shame you spent money on a new primatic cylinder :(
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top