Is this horizontal Tank Installation correct?

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Hi all,

We've had a horizontal tank installed (see photos below), it has a temperature and pressure release valve which keeps popping. Previously it was a plastic pipe which melted last time and flooded the loft (nightmare) so we asked the plumber to use copper. It has now popped several times since we've had it despite the thermostats not being set to maximum and it seems very intermittent (sometimes a week or between issues yet the tank water is used every day). If we run solely on either heater it seems ok but on both, we have the problem.

Any help would be appreciated as we're at the end of our tether and its costing us a fortune in electricity. Unfortunately the installer isn't available at the moment.

Is the "hot out" suppossed to be exactly at the top, making the heaters and the stats horizontal rather than pointing upwards from the bottom? Currently its about a 40 degree angle away from the top).

Any other suggestions would be appreciated!

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Quick update, we just had another instance of it overflowing, just a steading trickle of boiling hot water coming out of the overflow. While this was happening, both of the heaters were on and drawing power. Tried the hot water tap, the water is scalding hot. I'm assuming this means either both thermostats are faulty or there's an issue with the installation (like the tank rotation)?
 
Can you show exactly where the expansion vessel (Lower right??) is piped from, also the writing on the labels on all the devices on the cylinder eg. pressure reducing valve, expansion relief valve, and the temperature and relief valve (T&PRV) on the cylinder itself. Also, the vol (capacity of the expansion vessel)
 
Can you show exactly where the expansion vessel (Lower right??) is piped from, also the writing on the labels on all the devices on the cylinder eg. pressure reducing valve, expansion relief valve, and the temperature and relief valve (T&PRV) on the cylinder itself. Also, the vol (capacity of the expansion vessel)
Thanks for the reply. I've added the label of the pressure tank and already have the main tank. I'll nip in to the loft and get some more photos of the relief valves shortly.
 
I think the cylinder outer casing seam should be at 2 o'clock rather than at 11.30. I cant see how the heater stats can work correctly as they are. There will be a lot of swearing when they need replacing.
 
Where did you find this installer? Did you check their qualifications? Why have they not put their details on the label where required?

I am not a heating engineer, but I’ve just had a quick look at the manual for your cylinder and have spotted three deviations from from the instructions so far. I din’t know how serious they are though, nor whether they explain your symptoms.
 
I am not a heating engineer,

You need to be G3 which is not a heating engineer.

Even so, the MI's need to be studied first and if the install deviates from them, then that's where you would start.

I don't know this brand but most horizontal UVs are not ideal.
 
I think the cylinder outer casing seam should be at 2 o'clock rather than at 11.30. I cant see how the heater stats can work correctly as they are. There will be a lot of swearing when they need replacing.
Thanks Ajrtd, so that would make the pipework at 12 o'clock correct? Appreciate the help.
 
Where did you find this installer? Did you check their qualifications? Why have they not put their details on the label where required?

I am not a heating engineer, but I’ve just had a quick look at the manual for your cylinder and have spotted three deviations from from the instructions so far. I din’t know how serious they are though, nor whether they explain your symptoms.
HI Endecopt, thanks for the info.
1) He's the plumber our builder uses, 2) Nope, they were subcontracted, 3) I don't know but I'll ask!

Would you mind listing the deviations you saw, that would really help me with discussions!
 
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Is the EV full of water?
Hi Dilalio, thanks commenting. I'm guessing EV = Expansion Vessel? I'm not sure - is there any easy way to check given its fixed to the floor and plumbed in? I know we've had problems with these before.
 
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You need to be G3 which is not a heating engineer.

Even so, the MI's need to be studied first and if the install deviates from them, then that's where you would start.

I don't know this brand but most horizontal UVs are not ideal.
Missed this post when replying to your other. I'm afraid I don't know what a G3, MI or UV are - I've gotten involved because the plumber is no longer responding. I'm pretty good with electrics, general building, joinery, etc. but have always stayed away from plumbing! I'd be comfortable swapping out the thermostats but my worry is the whole tank install isn't set right (wrong rotation).

In terms of why we went horizontal, we have really limited height in the loft and we had two horizontal ones for years (decades) previously with no issues.

Sorry, not sure if any of this helps or not!
 
G3 registered = Registered under G3 of the building regulations Part G

MI = Manufacturers Instructions

UV = Unvented
 

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