Joining new double roman to old ones - how????

[piper64]

I'm retiling my porch, which has a shared roof with next door and was going to use new tiles, but now see that they are completely different in profile, so will not simply fit together.

I've spoken to a roofer, who said there are so many variants, it's just do what you can t make them fit.

Redoing both porches isn't an option as the neighbour says she cannot afford a few quid for her share of the tiles, even though I'll be doing the job for her.

is there a way to join old to new????

 

[Stevetheroofer]

use a bonding gutter(also called a secret valley)
or treat your neighbour to a new roof

 

[piper64]

Thanks.
I was just reading about bonded gutters, so i will look into that method.

Treat them to a new roof? I had thought about that, but their refusal to put anything towards it at all has pee'd me off, so sod'em.

If a bonded gutter can be narrow, like 3" wide showing, then it'll look fine and seperate our nice, new roof from theirs.

 

[joe-90]

Some people don't deserve decent neighbours.

 

[piper64]

that's what they think as well i expect

 

[piper64]

Had a quick search on the net and found a Glidevale Univalley product. I can't see who stocks iit or anything similar though. Anyone know?

 

[Stevetheroofer]

Your best bet is your local roofing merchant or maybe builders merchant. b&Q or wickes are no good for roofing bits

 

[piper64]

Been phoning around today and Jewson, who are a Glidevale stockist I was told, had never heard of them or their products?

Spoke to a roofing supplies place a few miles from me and they stock Filon bonding gutters. Looking at them they have the mortar joint running down the middle of a hidden gutter under the butted tile edges.

http://www.hambleside-danelaw.co.uk/downloads/files/cad/bonding-gutters/004BGI.pdf

Rather than a juxtoposition of old and new tiles like that, I prefer the Glidevale system whereby a gutter is visible as the mortar joint is on either side of it. The gutter can be 73mm wide or the tiles can be brought over the gutter margin. That way, the tiles have an amount of leeway avoiding cutting at the butted joint.

http://www.glidevale.com/downloads/univalley_125_&_bond_strip.pdf

I just need to find a bloody stockist!

 

[Stevetheroofer]

Use the filon gutter.
Don't use any mortar or it will leak.
Close butt tiles to the centre of the valley
That way it remains a secret valley!

 

[piper64]

As it's on a porch, so quite low level, even a small gap will give away the secret! That's why I would prefer the Glidevale type, as I can close the gap or leave it an open gutter whatever fits best.

If I don't use any mortar, what fixes and seals the tiles? Also what holds the gutter strip in place?
I'm butting up old clay Double Roman to new concrete Double Roman tiles, not slate to tiles as is shown here:

http://www.hambleside-danelaw.co.uk...ucts/bonding-gutters/bonding-gutter-hdlbg.php

 

[Stevetheroofer]

The bonding gutter nails on top of the battens.
One tile nib is usually knocked off where it sits on the gutter so as to stop it raising up. The tiles can usually be nailed to stop them moving.
The bonding gutter is designed in a way with two channels so as not to let water in. So ideally keep your gap tight.
You don't want to have a roof looking like you have bodged it.
How different are your new tiles from the neighbours?

 

[piper64]

So ideally keep your gap tight.
You don't want to have a roof looking like you have bodged it.
How different are your new tiles from the neighbours?

Theirs are 66 year old clay tiles, but the ones we are going to use are Marley Double Roman which are concrete, with a thicker profile. A gutter strip is the only way it will NOT look like it's bodged. I've tried all ways to get the old and new fitting together, but no way.

How can I get the gap tight between the tile and the bonding strip if each tile is overlapped onto the one below? There will always be a wedge shaped gap if I don't use mortar.

 

[Roofer]

So ideally keep your gap tight.

How can I get the gap tight between the tile and the bonding strip if each tile is overlapped onto the one below? There will always be a wedge shaped gap if I don't use mortar.

Steve was talking about the gap between the new and old tiles. If that is tight you don't have to fill the 'wedge shaped gap' underneath

 

[piper64]

OK, however the two tiles are of a different construction so even if they are butted together, the new concrete one will be higher than the old clay one I suspect. I'd have to lay them out to be sure.
To me, having a mortared gutter or gap would allow this difference to be negated, but as I've not this before I don't know.

I've got a roofing chap around tonight, to get his advice 'on site', so should get a definate answer then.

 

[piper64]

Got the new felt, battens and tiles on. They butted up quite well, with a bit of cutting and shaping of the clay tiles.

I was going to mortar the the wedge shaped gaps, but is there an alternative that is flexible? I seem to recall a fibrous paste being available?