kettle element heat control

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Please do not attempt a set-up like this. It would not even be done like this in strict lab controlled conditions !
 
EFL, Galvanised buckets are still available from good hardware shops.
 
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Back to the obvious

Buy/beg/borrow/steal jam pan and put on top of stove/cooker/fire
Put in water
Turn on heat

No kettle elements, no plastic bucket and a bit of acting responsibly - especially as you admit your electrical knowledge is wanting
 
So once you have a safe metal container with barriers at around 2m away, asbestos suit etc you can use a lower wattage element if you don't need to apply as much power, or use two or even three elements in series.
 
i want to make something myself - i enjoy it and its part of what im intending to do as a project.
There comes a point where trying to lash up a shonky alternative to using something ready made which is more suitable because you want to make it yourself goes past enjoyable satisfaction and enters the realms of lunacy.

Go and buy a second hand urn, and devote your energies to making beer which tastes nice, and which you'd be happy to drink even if it cost as much as buying it.
 
I also wanted to boil water slowly and used an urn but found the simmerstat boiled the water too rapid. I was making a distilled water maker to get water to top up batteries in the Falklands.

So I used a 110v transformer. I would boil at 230v then unplug and I made an adaptor to plug into the 110v supply and the water simmered nicely being condensed in to carboy.

This went on for a few years until some one thought I was making alcohol and smashed it all up. By that time I had enough stock of water to last until a proper still arrived.

As to plastic you will note in kettles there is a baffle to stop heat from element going direct onto plastic and the plastic used does not become plastic at 100 degs. A plastic bucket will become too plastic at 100 degs and likely fail like the header tank that killed the baby which resulted in the non resettable overtemp in immersion heaters.

Series connection of a number of elements from caravan kettles is what I would use in UK but no caravans on the Falklands. Well think there was one at the Fitzroy River.

But what do you want it for? Most people would use a simmerstat. There are some commercial units like the hot tap with baffles and thermostats so boiling water always at the tap. But most are simmerstats which just turn the element on and off at regular intervals. Have seen some with half way rectifier to reduce power by half but cooling the rectifier would be a problem.
 
. Have seen some with half way rectifier to reduce power by half but cooling the rectifier would be a problem.

20Ax 0.7V * 50% duty cycle = 7W, plus a little for leakage when reverse biased - say 10W or so dissipation.
 
If you google DIY sous vide you will see a lot of projects involving a PID controller to hold a water bath at a precise temperature. I got a PID unit from ebay for £32 including temperature probe and a solid state 25A relay.

Put this in a box from Maplin or RS components and use it to control your kettle element and set temp to around 95 C and I think you will have what you want.

Here is mine controlling a £20 Argos slow cooker - the output of the PID goes to a standard UK 13A socket into which the slow cooker plugs:
sous%20vide%20finished.JPG
 
I use the same sort of PID controller for our domestic fan oven. Oven temperature is controlled within 1 degree C from ambient to 250C. No excuses any more for burnt cakes ! Just make sure whatever PID control you buy has an output suitable for driving the SSR unit.
 
I use the same sort of PID controller for our domestic fan oven. Oven temperature is controlled within 1 degree C from ambient to 250C. No excuses any more for burnt cakes ! Just make sure whatever PID control you buy has an output suitable for driving the SSR unit.

Was just about to suggest PID controller and solid state relay...I have commissioned this same set up a gazillion times on packaging machine heat shrink tunnels, works a treat :)
 
Whether a plastic container can withstand the heat or not, It's not going to taste very nice.

I often get 4pt milk cartons that have that 'burnt plastic' taste. Same as when mum put a pizza in the over and didn't realiSe it had a plastic base in the packaging !!
 

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