kettle element heat control

One relatively simple setup that comes to mind is ...

Get a number of elements, of a lower wattage than a normal kettle.
Thermostat that can have it's sensor positioned over the contents so it will be triggered by the steam when boiling.
Relay
Momentary button to set it off.

Then work out the wiring so that on pressing the button, the relay pulls in, and all the elements are connected in parallel for full heat. The relay is held in through one of it's own contacts and the thermostat.

When the stat triggers (the contents are up to the boil), the relay drops out, and reconnects the elements in series for the simmer.

Examples with 1kW elements :
2 elements: 2kW in parallel, 1/2kW in series - 4:1 change in power
3 elements: 3kW in parallel, 1/3kW in series - 9:1 change in power


However, the PID controller sounds much more elegant.
 
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With the amount of faffing about that this set-up would need, I think I'd just buy an urn!
 
A chap who has a small commercial brewery in the industrial unit next to ours has something like the below controlling the temperature of water in a large tank. This water in then pumped around coils around the brewing vats.

We have also installed these in vats used for making cheese.

Some do not allow vast temperature sways though, and are designed for cooling, not heating, so look at the parameters.

Refrigeration_Spare_Parts_Air_Conditioner_Parts_268.jpg
 
controlling the temperature of water in a large tank. This water in then pumped around coils around the brewing vats.
This is the best way to heat materials in food processing as the heating is evenly spread and the hot elements cannot create hot spots in the processing ( cooking ) vessels.
 
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Mankind has been making beer for thousands of years - you clearly don't need modern technology.
 
An old-fashioned kettle like a Russel Hobbs has a threaded element with a large nut on the outside. You could mount that at the bottom of a galvanised container like a bucket or dustbin.
It has a cut-out which pushes the plug out if the kettle boils dry.

The thermostat is a bimetalic strip in the handle assembly which simply flicks the switch off when the water is boiling. It reacts to a flow of steam up a duct incorporated into the front of the handle where it bolts to the kettle.
You would need a reasonably sealed lid just like on a kettle, in order to ensure that the steam was driven past the sensor strip. With an open container it would be like trying to boil a kettle in a draught with the lid missing - it would never turn off because the steam would get blown away.

In short, you need to construct a large scale Russel Hobbs K2, perhaps the "K1002", using all the elements of the donor kettle :)
 
Mankind has been making beer for thousands of years - you clearly don't need modern technology.
Modern technology is needed to mass produce the liquids that are passed off as beer without the need for a skilled brewer to monitor the processes.

The bain-marie has been around for hundreds of years gently heating food and mash without fear of burning or scorching.
 
Get a number of elements, of a lower wattage than a normal kettle.
Thermostat that can have it's sensor positioned over the contents so it will be triggered by the steam when boiling.
Relay
Momentary button to set it off.
Says the man demonstrating a politicians level of knowledge of technical matters :rolleyes:
 
Get a number of elements, of a lower wattage than a normal kettle.
Thermostat that can have it's sensor positioned over the contents so it will be triggered by the steam when boiling.
Relay
Momentary button to set it off.
Says the man demonstrating a politicians level of knowledge of technical matters :rolleyes:
Here we go again, the troll is at it.
 
So, you having been found to be giving advice which requires certain assumptions to be valid for it to be good, such as assuming that the thermostat works in the range required, assuming the relays can cope with the load of the elements, assuming the wiring can cope with the current etc, when I say to you exactly what you said to me because you found it unacceptable for me to assume that "of course" the right building blocks would be used, I'm a troll.

I didn't originally mean to post the above here - I wanted to quote you in the other topic, but I hit submit here by mistake. Nevertheless my criticism here of what you wrote here is just as valid as your criticism of what I wrote in the other topic, is it not?
 
So you've decided to vandalise another thread to try and avoid admitting that you made a small mistake :rolleyes:
In the context of the OP clearly being a tinkerer, are you suggesting I should have provided a list of part numbers, full schematic, mechanical drawings, CNC program to make the mechanical bits, etc ?
Or, in the context of the OP being a tinkerer, and the rest of the thread being about offering ideas for him to develop, you think it's wrong to offer ideas for his to develop from ?
 
So you've decided to vandalise another thread to try and avoid admitting that you made a small mistake :rolleyes:
I didn't originally mean to post the above here - I wanted to quote you in the other topic, but I hit submit here by mistake.


In the context of the OP clearly being a tinkerer, are you suggesting I should have provided a list of part numbers, full schematic, mechanical drawings, CNC program to make the mechanical bits, etc ?
No, I don't.


Or, in the context of the OP being a tinkerer, and the rest of the thread being about offering ideas for him to develop, you think it's wrong to offer ideas for his to develop from ?
What about other people reading the advice?
 
FFS please read.

I have said I didn't mean to post here - I have said I made a mistake.

It was absolutely relevant to quote Simon in the other thread where he's criticising me for doing what he did here, and that is what I meant to do, and have now done.
 

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