Kinetic switches.

[SUNRAY]

I have been out today looking at a job. there are 2 gardens, each side of a river so not able to run cable, and both have loads of intermediate switches operating mostly bollards.

Both systems consist of a line of switches, roughly 200m & 500m long controlling several contactors operating the lights.

Basically the customer would like one big system and have suggested Kinetic switches as a solution.

I have almost zero experience (so far my involvement is restricted to removing them) and looked at what's available, I see various receivers and transmitters, one that takes my fancy is the Quinetic QU RWCS.

Very very rough APPROXIMATION of layout, overall diagonal distance in the order of 400m so well beyond changing all of the switches to kinetic

Basically the wiring available to work with is of this order

It's a very strange one and if I'm honest I see little that can done in a fairly simple way with kinetic switches or/and changing all of the existing switches. For those who are familiar with such devices what other parts should I be looking at?

My preferred option is currently replacing all of the current switches with a pair of push buttons; 'on' and 'off' (on a similar arrangement to a motor starter) to vastly simplify the syncing.

 

[bernardgreen]

My preferred option is currently replacing all of the current switches with a pair of push buttons; 'on' and 'off' (on a similar arrangement to a motor starter) to vastly simplify the syncing.

That is the best option and then use a "wireless" (*) method to get the ON ~~ OFF commands in both directions across the river.

A small river can be crossed using tone signalling.
While any ON button is pressed a specific tone is generated and a different tone is generated while any OFF button pressed. The tone is transmitted across the water to a receiver which decodes the tone and "presses" the required ON or OFF button

Wireless could be actual wireless. or earth currents between electrodes in the ground either side of the stream or inductive loops.

 

[SUNRAY]

That is the best option and then use a "wireless" (*) method to get the ON ~~ OFF commands in both directions across the river.

Yes this is where I'd like to be with it.

A small river can be crossed using tone signalling.
While any ON button is pressed a specific tone is generated and a different tone is generated while any OFF button pressed. The tone is transmitted across the water to a receiver which decodes the tone and "presses" the required ON or OFF button
Wireless could be actual wireless. or earth currents between electrodes in the ground either side of the stream or inductive loops.

If this was my own place I'd not be concerned what kit I use but this is for a paying customer and who knows who they call in next time so really it needs to be something mainstream. They have already been offering their liking for kinetic switches and they are certainly very fashionable at the moment (there is a small listed building on site and Quinetic switches have been an invaluable solution). Additionally there is a TLC within 1/2 mile

I'm not very familiar with Quinetic (or any other make) but the general information seems to point to the receivers latching whereas the 2 button system would require non latched (and potentially with an inverted output).

I spent a fair time on the phone today to EA to see about dropping a cable into the mud... OH

 

[SUNRAY]

The feedback on this, Our suggestion was some wifi 'smart devices', I don't know which as quote was prepped by 'the boss'... and we didn't get the job.

The distance between the building is under 40m and the river at this point 12-15m measuring from gmaps.

The solution was done with some kinetic devices (again I don't know what) and now they frequently have to turn off the MCB's to release the locked up systems, the contractors have been back a number of times.

 

[ericmark]

Interesting problem, and I will not pretend to know range of switches etc. But at home I have far too many makes of switches, but lucky all will work with google home app, so all can be switched off together or one together, or groups of switches and bulbs.

I had a problem with neutral less switches which use a small current through the bulb to power the switches. But I found the TP-Link (Tapo) switch with a small battery removed most of the problems, including being able to power PIR controlled lights. The switch contacts don't care if 12 volt or 230 volt, as battery powered, so even a power cut, switch stays as it was before the power outage.

They also do battery powered buttons, so easy to set up remote control without the user needing a smart phone. Personally use voice commands but it may help?

 

[SUNRAY]

I'm out of it so not looking for a solution, it turned out they have dish linked wifi in both buildings so it seemed to make lots of sense to use it. The 'Boss' is pretty astute with control kit so when he came up with an answer I left him to it.