What is the situ with kingspan regs wise these days, I am thinking of using it to go in-between the joists in a kitchen ceiling before I re board and plaster it. Or leave the existing ceiling as is and use kingspan plasterbord with the insulation attached and board over.
Kingspan insulation
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Depends what is above it. If it's another room, I'd stick to plasterboard.
If it's an attic or flat situation then insulated plasterboard is more effective. If you go down the board route, make sure they are fire rated. I am sceptical about the effectiveness of rolls since draughts can pass through them and you need a lot of it (400mm+) for it to be effective. They do offer insulation, but can vary dramatically.
I wouldn't use boards between joists though, hard to get a good seal and draughts are a killer.
Ideally, you would want to use rolls (at least 100mm) between the joists and some fire rated insulated plasterboard to seal it off.
Thanks omph. I wasn't sure if I had to use fire rated P -board or not in a kitchen I know it has to be in an integral garage and over steel.
Above the kitchen is a bathroom. Currently the original kitchen ceiling has been covered up with cladding on battens 100mm lower than the original ceiling which is a mess - hence covered up with cladding. So the cladding is coming down and I have to sort the original ceiling out.
My main concern is to to stop excessive condensation on the inside of the kitchen ceiling because at the minute the 100mm gap in the cladding to original ceiling is doing the job.
Above the kitchen is a bathroom. Currently the original kitchen ceiling has been covered up with cladding on battens 100mm lower than the original ceiling which is a mess - hence covered up with cladding. So the cladding is coming down and I have to sort the original ceiling out.
My main concern is to to stop excessive condensation on the inside of the kitchen ceiling because at the minute the 100mm gap in the cladding to original ceiling is doing the job.
The kitchen is small 2.3m x 3.7m. So as you do not recommend solid kingspan in-between joists then I might go for 50mm rockwool which I have used under our living room floor. The joist space space is not excessivly cold but is when compaired to a small kitchen generation a lot of steam and heat.
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The proper solution to steam is good ventilation and in the case of the kitchen an extractor fan. Damp and mould is an unavoidable facet of a poorly ventilated property. If you are renovating, I would consider looking into MVHR, or the lesser desirable PIV (with a heater ideally). PIV is cheaper to install but more expensive to run, MVHR is the gold standard.
Actually never had a problem with Mold or damp in the kitchen and we do have an extractor chimney hood that I am going to upgrade the fan for a more powerful one. Its just that I am doing the job and may as well do a good one and as at the minute I have the 100mm air gap I am not getting a condensated ceiling but just dont want to straight overboard and then find its getting very condensated.
On the reg's issue I remember when we had an extension it either had to be 2 layers of normal or 1 layer of fire board so if I go down the no insulation route then overboard then I will be getting the 2 layers of board will I not
PIR is twice as efficient as quilt so is best. Cut it nicely with a purpose saw or bread knife. Fill any gaps with slivers or expanding foam.
Rockwool is better for sound. You could combine the two.
All plasterboard is fire resistant. You only need 30 minutes, so 12.5mm board and skim will do. You could use foil backed plasterboard as a vapour check to keep moisture out of the ceiling. Or a polythene sheet.
Rockwool is better for sound. You could combine the two.
All plasterboard is fire resistant. You only need 30 minutes, so 12.5mm board and skim will do. You could use foil backed plasterboard as a vapour check to keep moisture out of the ceiling. Or a polythene sheet.
I am no so worried about keeping moisture out of the ceiling space from the kitchen but more stopping condensation forming on the inside of the ceiling - as in dripping on my head. I mentioned rock wool as its nice and stiff and should sit in-between the joists with maybe a nail tacked in every now and then baring in mind i am doing it from below.
I am not even sure if condensation will be an issue so don't want to over spend on kingspan when its not necessary so the cheaper rockwool may do.
I did not know about the fire regs so you think that I will not have to use fire board then.
I am not even sure if condensation will be an issue so don't want to over spend on kingspan when its not necessary so the cheaper rockwool may do.
I did not know about the fire regs so you think that I will not have to use fire board then.
No, I don't think, I know it.
The thing is at the minute the original ceiling is covered over with a suspended plastic cladding 100mm below the original so there is in affect a 100mm cold bridging gap. Which will all be removed.
Ok no requirement for fire board
^woody is right. Plasterboard is fire resistant and in your case should suffice.
Fire rated plasterboard is only something I would use for insulation that isn't non-combustable (Class A1, A2, B).
i do think using insulated plasterboard is better than filling the joists since the wood can act as a thermal bridge, but in your case since you have a bathroom above it shouldn't matter as much and rockwool would probably be less of a headache. PIR boards in joists need to be air tight for them to be effective..
Fire rated plasterboard is only something I would use for insulation that isn't non-combustable (Class A1, A2, B).
i do think using insulated plasterboard is better than filling the joists since the wood can act as a thermal bridge, but in your case since you have a bathroom above it shouldn't matter as much and rockwool would probably be less of a headache. PIR boards in joists need to be air tight for them to be effective..
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Thanks for that woody. I understand the thermal bridge issue with the joists and have seen posts on here that use aluminium tape over the joists when insulating inbetween but for my use its another room above and those that use tape over the joists seem to be vaulted roofs.
Just looking at the info for foil backed plaster board and sounds like just what I need and no need even for rockwool.
here ------
- Metallised polyester backing controls water vapour – reduces the risk of condensation damage where cool and warm air meet
- Provides dry lining and vapour control in one application – enables faster project completion time
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