kitchen floor tiles
- Thread starter kennymck
- Start date
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As TPT what is the floor construction concrete slab or suspended over joists? 12mm is the minimum for over boarding an existing timber floor (not chipboards though) but quality tile backer boards are a nother option. A new/replacement floor depends on the size/pitch/span of your joists, again, as TPT but for a heavy load/use area such as a kitchen, it should be a minimum of 22mm & probably 25mm WBP which is the BS, Tile Association & adhesive manufacturers recommendation.
When tiling or re-tiling, there are many things that can catch you out. With walls, you need to consider tile weights, prep & materials & suspended timber floors need special consideration. I would advise you read the Tiling Sticky & Forum Archive posts before doing any work or buying materials, it could prevent you making disastrous & potentially expensive mistakes. It’s also important to use only quality trade tilling materials of the correct type for your tiles & tile base; cheapo own brand & DIY stuff is mostly crap.
When tiling or re-tiling, there are many things that can catch you out. With walls, you need to consider tile weights, prep & materials & suspended timber floors need special consideration. I would advise you read the Tiling Sticky & Forum Archive posts before doing any work or buying materials, it could prevent you making disastrous & potentially expensive mistakes. It’s also important to use only quality trade tilling materials of the correct type for your tiles & tile base; cheapo own brand & DIY stuff is mostly crap.
sorry for being a bit vague.... my flooring is mostly 22mm chipboard although the original part of my kitchen is T&G floorboards , the span of the joists is 600mm and the joist are 4"x2". the biggest span is around 6M. The floor area is like a "C" shape - kitchen opened up into dining room with an extension spanning both but accessed from dining room (if you can work that out).
I will probably get a tradesman into do the work, but would still like to know what the correct procedure is.
thanks for your replies
I will probably get a tradesman into do the work, but would still like to know what the correct procedure is.
thanks for your replies
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The T&G floorboards are OK for over boarding but chipboard is probably the worst possible tile base you can get; I generally won’t overboard it & replace with WBP ply. The minimum thickness I would recommend would be 22mm but 25mm (depending on floor construction) is a better bet in a high use/load area such as a kitchen. You now have 3 bases, chip, T&G & concrete & it’s beginning to sound like a recipe for tile failure. The overriding factor is going to be to get the whole floor at the same level & rigid which, from what you’ve said, may mean additional work. You also need to take account of the differential expansion that will occur between the suspended & concrete floor or the tiles will fail. This can be done using an uncoupling membrane under the tiles but a recent OP on Tiling Forum ended up replacing the suspended floor with a new concrete screed to ensure there were no problems witch cracking where they meet in the future.
I assume the 600mm is the joist pitch & not the span? If so, that’s the widest permitted & doesn’t bode well for a rigid tile base, you may need to provide additional supports. 4” x 2” joist size is small & the span can’t possibly be 6m or it would be like a trampoline! Are the joists intermediately supported over dwarf walls or brick piers under the floor? Tiling a “C” shaped room may also present problems & you may need an expansion joint.
I’m still struggling to understand exactly what you’ve got & some photo’s & a sketch may be useful showing the layout, sizes & where the two types of floor actually meet.
Be very careful how you chose your tradesman; generally builders have no real experience of tiling & get it wrong with monotonous regularity & although it might sound incredible, many who call themselves tilers can’t actually lay tiles!
I assume the 600mm is the joist pitch & not the span? If so, that’s the widest permitted & doesn’t bode well for a rigid tile base, you may need to provide additional supports. 4” x 2” joist size is small & the span can’t possibly be 6m or it would be like a trampoline! Are the joists intermediately supported over dwarf walls or brick piers under the floor? Tiling a “C” shaped room may also present problems & you may need an expansion joint.
I’m still struggling to understand exactly what you’ve got & some photo’s & a sketch may be useful showing the layout, sizes & where the two types of floor actually meet.
Be very careful how you chose your tradesman; generally builders have no real experience of tiling & get it wrong with monotonous regularity & although it might sound incredible, many who call themselves tilers can’t actually lay tiles!
600mm spacing as rich has said is the max....
I would look to lift it and sister up the joists and add dwangs,then wbp ply at 25mm thick...
What size type off tiles are being fixed?...
You may get away with 12.5mm backer boards using spff,or a latex based adhesive,but for that m2 area it could cost a few quid,so IMO without seeing I would lift replace ect....
You only want to do it once...
I would look to lift it and sister up the joists and add dwangs,then wbp ply at 25mm thick...
What size type off tiles are being fixed?...
You may get away with 12.5mm backer boards using spff,or a latex based adhesive,but for that m2 area it could cost a few quid,so IMO without seeing I would lift replace ect....
You only want to do it once...
Both (6mm and 9mm) are thin. At least go for more than 15mm..
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