Kitchen - Spur from Fused Socket?

[sparkwright]

No, the fuse is to protect the cable NOT the appliance.

The appliance will have a cable on it.

Don't be difficult Winston.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Not sure I'd care for a fuse behind an INTEGRATED appliance,

Nor me, came across one behind an integrated FF, bloody nightmare!

Had one of these fuses actually blown? Was the removal of the appliance necessitated?





Where an above counter FCU or Grid fuse is fitted, then just a flex outlet connector (without a fuse) could be used.

Or could the use of an unfused plug be available?
Wash my mouth out - of course not - people might use it for something else.

Just reading today how Britain is a nanny-state - always requiring the majority to conform to rules made because of the stupid.

 

[JohnD]

IME, fuses for fixed kitchen appliances blow approximately never. Sometimes they have a fault that trips the RCD.

I am quite happy with a switched FCU above the worktop, supplying a socket near the appliance. If the appliance has a fault it can be isolated above the worktop, and pulled away from the wall for repair or replacement. It's very much easier to push in a plug than to rewire a connection unit on your knees inside a cupboard. The fact that there is a duplicate fuse in the plug has never troubled me, though it gives the opportunity for doctrinal discussion.

 

[winston1]

IME, fuses for fixed kitchen appliances blow approximately never. Sometimes they have a fault that trips the RCD.

I am quite happy with a switched FCU above the worktop, supplying a socket near the appliance.

Why, when a simple switch will do, supplying a socket near the appliance?

 

[John D v2.0]

Just reading today how Britain is a nanny-state - always requiring the majority to conform to rules made because of the stupid.

Yes let's check with the grenfell residents what they think of the red tape and rules and regs enforcement.

It's not the stupid, as you eloquently put it, that we are protecting, it's those who don't have a choice, whose voices aren't heard.

 

[JohnW2]

Why, when a simple switch will do, supplying a socket near the appliance?

Cheaper?

Kind Regards, John

 

[EFLImpudence]

Yes let's check with the grenfell residents what they think of the red tape and rules and regs enforcement.

That's not an example of the nanny state.

Although turning blocks of flats into flammable tubes should not really need a law to prevent it.




Keep wearing your hard hat out in the open.

 

[JohnD]

remember he called for "a bonfire of regulations?"

He got one

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I see the inmates are out in force tonight

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I am quite happy with a switched FCU above the worktop, supplying a socket near the appliance. If the appliance has a fault it can be isolated above the worktop, and pulled away from the wall for repair or replacement. It's very much easier to push in a plug than to rewire a connection unit on your knees inside a cupboard. The fact that there is a duplicate fuse in the plug has never troubled me, though it gives the opportunity for doctrinal discussion.

 

[JohnD]

very worthwhile, every time you buy a new appliance, to cut the factory-fitted plug off the flex and fit a new one.

Even better when a new householder has never (needed to have) fitted a plug and has no idea how to go about it. Obviously they won't have any spare 15A plugs in the kitchen drawer.

And for what benefit?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It was just a suggestion on a way for people who hate the idea of having 2 fuses to avoid the problem.

 

[JohnD]

Cheaper?

Kind Regards, John

yes

... FCUs can be cheaper than DP switches, because they are so popular

There is a doctrinaire disagreement over having an FCU and a fused plug for one appliance, because you have a duplication of fuses.

However in my experience, kitchen appliances blow their fuses approximately never, so I don't consider this a problem.

A switch above the worktop enables you to easily isolate power to the appliance, and a standard plug enables you to easily remove and replace the appliance, so is pretty good arrangement.

There is a chance that the switch you have found is intended for an electric cooker, and a cooker needs a different outlet and circuit, so photos will be a good start, as 'prentice says.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Had one of these fuses actually blown? Was the removal of the appliance necessitated?

Yes the fuse had blown and the F/F was rammed with thawing products. The customer only noticed because pools of water appearing on the floor. Food removed and F/F removed from housing, then refitted. Delightful job just to swap a fuse.

Where an above counter FCU or Grid fuse is fitted, then just a flex outlet connector (without a fuse) could be used.

Not a big fan of socket outlet in nearby units, but sometimes it is the only logical option. I tend to if wall space and location allows, to go with plug removal, then either an accessible joint or MF if a tricky location. Then fused and switched in an accessible place, ideally above the appliance, but that is not allows possible.

 

[JohnW2]

Yes the fuse had blown and the F/F was rammed with thawing products. The customer only noticed because pools of water appearing on the floor. Food removed and F/F removed from housing, then refitted. Delightful job just to swap a fuse.

As JohnD has said, for a domestic appliance to blow a BS1362 fuse seems extremely uncommon - I don't think I can recall it ever having happened anywhere I've been living for the past 50+ years. Even stalled/jammed refrigeration compressor motors don't seem to do it.

I therefore wonder if you have any idea why the fuse blew and, perhaps more to the point, wonder how comfortable you were about 'refitting' the F/F after you had put in a new fuse?

Kind Regards, John