Fused spur for tumble drier

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Is it good practice to take a 13amp fused spur from a double socket in circuit in my kitchen to hard wire my tumble drier? Some absolute nob head had it plugged into a extension lead under kickboard into a single socket. Thinking of getting rid of the single socket and using Junction box. Then taking a fused spur from double socket above worktop. Would it need to be a switched fuse spur?
Cheers guys and gals
 

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Is it good practice to take a 13amp fused spur from a double socket in circuit in my kitchen to hard wire my tumble drier?
I would say, no.
You would likely have to use a Fused Connector Unit (the cable is the spur; fused or not) if you hard wire it but that doesn't mean it is good practice.

Some absolute nob head had it plugged into a extension lead under kickboard into a single socket.
That might not be ideal but what do you think is so wrong with it?

Thinking of getting rid of the single socket and using Junction box. Then taking a fused spur from double socket above worktop. Would it need to be a switched fuse spur?
You seem to be rather mixed up.

Just plug your tumble drier into a socket in the normal manner.
You could fit a 20A switch if you wish but another fuse is not necessary in addition to the one in the plug.
 
Is it good practice to take a 13amp fused spur from a double socket in circuit in my kitchen to hard wire my tumble drier? Some absolute nob head had it plugged into a extension lead under kickboard into a single socket. Thinking of getting rid of the single socket and using Junction box. Then taking a fused spur from double socket above worktop. Would it need to be a switched fuse spur?
Using an extension lead is certainly not an ideal way.

However, you wouldn't need a 'fused spur' (fused connection unit) - you could simply install a (single or double) socket (close enough to the drier) as an 'unfused spur' taken from the double socket - there would then still be a 13A fuse in the drier's plug.

Kind Regards, John
 
So just take a spur from double socket into a single socket in a cupboard next to drier and plug into that? ......the next problem is I have a small chest freezer. That was also in same extension lead. Would I do same from the next socket on circuit...take a spur and into single socket again? That the best way?
 
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So just take a spur from double socket into a single socket in a cupboard next to drier and plug into that?
Yes - assuming everything is satisfactory.

......the next problem is I have a small chest freezer. That was also in same extension lead. Would I do same from the next socket on circuit...take a spur and into single socket again?
Yes.

That the best way?
It is a satisfactory way. There isn't a best way.
 
So just take a spur from double socket into a single socket in a cupboard next to drier and plug into that? .....
Yep, but it could be a double socket you add.
.the next problem is I have a small chest freezer. That was also in same extension lead. Would I do same from the next socket on circuit...take a spur and into single socket again? That the best way?
Is it close enough to the drier for you to be able to position a new double socket such that both drier and freezer could be plugged into it? If so, that would probably be the simplest solution.

In the absence of an FCU, you are only 'allowed' to have one (single or double) socket supplied as an unfused spur. Hence, if you could not plug both drier and freezer into the same double socket, you'd probably have to put in a second new socket, probably as a spur from some different socket (since, although 'allowed', you would probably struggle to get two additional spur cables into one 'source' socket).

Kind Regards John
 
Yes John both next to each other. Basically just fed both plugs up into the double socket above worktop for now. But at the weekend will take a spur from said socket down and to a cupboard and install a double socket for both to plug into then. Thankyou mate. Think I was just over thinking things.
This is why I think the extension lead was a bad idea EFL and when I say it was plugged into a single socket....its just loose under units behind kickboard. Best to just use a junction box and get rid?
Cheers guys
 

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This is why I think the extension lead was a bad idea EFL and when I say it was plugged into a single socket....its just loose under units behind kickboard. Best to just use a junction box and get rid?

It did not end up like that because it was a bad idea.

It was because the fuse holder or a screw terminal was loose as would also happen to a junction box with a similar occurrence.
 
Ok I'll double check that socket too...thanks.
To be fair it's lasted atleast a couple of years
 
Yes John both next to each other. Basically just fed both plugs up into the double socket above worktop for now. But at the weekend will take a spur from said socket down and to a cupboard and install a double socket for both to plug into then. Thankyou mate.
You're welcome. That should be fine.
Think I was just over thinking things.
We are all often guilty of that!
This is why I think the extension lead was a bad idea EFL and when I say it was plugged into a single socket....its just loose under units behind kickboard. Best to just use a junction box and get rid?
As has been said, that happened because some connection was 'loose', not because of the arrangement of the wiring.

Kind Regards, John
 
Too things, one is a vented tumble drier takes a lot of current, so all connections need to be sound, once a plug has over heated in a socket like the one you show, it can damage the spring pressure in the socket, so unless socket is changed, replacement plug will also fail as poor connection on the pins.

Second is with a heat pump tumble drier the volt drop is important, most instructions state do not use extension leads because of the volt drop problem not only in the cable, but in the use of multi 13 amp fuses.

I am aware of this problem, so when fitting my tumble drier I was 2.5 mm² cable for the extension lead, and a good beefy plug on the extension lead better suited to dissipate any heat. Yes would have been better to have extended the ring final, but units had already been fitted to the wall, so that would have been a huge job. I am aware that plugs should be in free air, so the heat from the fuse can be dissipated, but having moved from a vented to heat pump type, the current involved has dropped.

With the vented we found on 2 kW it would take 60 minutes, and on 1 kW it would take 90 minutes approx, so it uses less power on the lower setting, moving to heat pump type power dropped to 500 watt and still dries in 90 minutes, so around half the cost to dry, and fitted above washer so using same soil pipe drain as washing machine, however not the same power outlet.

At some point want to fit the energy meter and see what it uses, on my to do list.
 
A refriduation plant heats one heat exchanger and cools another so water condenses off cool one, and is extracted from cloths by hot one.

Also small pump to pump the condensate into a drain.

The other method is to cool a heat exchanger with cold water, that is how washer driers work.

Both are condenser driers.
 
A refriduation plant heats one heat exchanger and cools another so water condenses off cool one, and is extracted from cloths by hot one.
That what I presumed/guessed - but do such things actually exist?

Kind Regards, John
 

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