Kitchen tap removal advice please

[terryplumb]

In the picture above ,the hose for cold water has an olive and nut to make a compression joint, I assume you put them there and were not originally supplied ,hence you used the brass fitting ?

 

[diyhelpmeplease]

In the picture above ,the hose for cold water has an olive and nut to make a compression joint, I assume you put them there and were not originally supplied ,hence you used the brass fitting ?

Yes that is correct. I took that nut and olive from the hot isolation valve. I had originally planned to connect to a short piece of copper pipe this way but a friend who is a keen DIY person suggested the male end of the cold flexi hose may not be designed to do that.

 

[diyhelpmeplease]

This YouTube video seems to suggest it is OK to use a compression nut on the male end of the flexihose. I would appreciate the advice of others before I do this

So my choices to try and resolve the weeping connection are

1. Remove the brass connector and use a compression joint to connect cold flexi-hose male ending to copper pipe
2. Replace PTFE tape with liquid PTFE - my concern here is how difficult this could be to remove later
3. Redo PTFE tape with more wraps and tighten even more

I am obviously happy to consider any other options.

 

[avonmouth]

just get a flat faced iso valve and screw your flexi onto that with a washer.There was no need for that brass fitting.

 

[diyhelpmeplease]

just get a flat faced iso valve and screw your flexi onto that with a washer.There was no need for that brass fitting.

Thanks. So something like this? And the male flexihose end just screws directly into the female end and there is a washer that will ensure it is leak proof?

Do you mind me asking, if a compression joint would work on the male ending of the cold flexihose (like in the video) as this would require me not to have to replace the existing cold isolation valve.

 

[terryplumb]

Firstly,there is nothing in the video that suggests fitting an olive and nut to a flat faced surface ( as you have on your Flexi hose for the cold supply) and nor should you.
Using what you already have ,wrap several turns of PTFE tape on the brass thread and smear LSX over it. Assemble together and leave it for an hour before turning water on and testing for leaks.

 

[diyhelpmeplease]

Firstly,there is nothing in the video that suggests fitting an olive and nut to a flat faced surface ( as you have on your Flexi hose for the cold supply) and nor should you.
Using what you already have ,wrap several turns of PTFE tape on the brass thread and smear LSX over it. Assemble together and leave it for an hour before turning water on and testing for leaks.

In the video at around 32 seconds in it shows a flexihose male ending like this and he connects it using a compression joint as far as I can see.

My flexihose I thought had a similar ending

 

[terryplumb]

Look closely at the inner surface and you will see that it is tapered to accept an olive.
Is your Flexi like that ?

 

[diyhelpmeplease]

Look closely at the inner surface and you will see that it is tapered to accept an olive.
Is your Flexi like that ?

Ah I see. No I don't think mine was like this and hence the reason my friend suggested using the brass connector. Thank you for clarifying this.

 

[avonmouth]

In post six you showed a picture of your hot & cold flexi hoses and they look completely different to each other.One will fit straight onto a flat faced iso valve and one has a male iron fitting.Did they come like that or have you altered the cold hose ?

 

[diyhelpmeplease]

In post six you showed a picture of your hot & cold flexi hoses and they look completely different to each other.One will fit straight onto a flat faced iso valve and one has a male iron fitting.Did they come like that or have you altered the cold hose ?

I think you are referring to this photo. I took off the compression nut and olive from the hot isolation valve and attached it to the male end of the cold flexihose. I am a beginner so was just trying to figure out solutions. The cold flexihose did not come with any additional attachment and looked like the second image below

 

[diyhelpmeplease]

Sorry to dwell on this but I want to ensure I do this correctly. A leak could be quite expensive!

As mentioned I used a brass connector - this one

I was on screwfix website this morning and spotted this one that is similar but the end the check valve would screw into has a washer. So I am thinking the flat male end of the cold flexihose could screw into this and that washer may solve all my problems.

I would appreciate any advice on this solution.

 

[denso13]

on screwfix website this morning and spotted this one that is similar but the end the check valve would screw into has a washer. So I am thinking the flat male end of the cold flexihose could screw into this and that washer may solve all my problems.

It depends as it might not fit inside the male fitting, it needs to go in a bit, depends what the end of the male one is like.

I'd stick with what you have.

 

[diyhelpmeplease]

It depends as it might not fit inside the male fitting, it needs to go in a bit, depends what the end of the male one is like.

I'd stick with what you have.

This is the male fitting on the cold flexihose (obviously sat next to a cold iso valve). This male fitting did fit the original brass female coupler.

Just so I am clear, is your concern the male end of the cold flexi hose will not engage with the washer?

 

[denso13]

This is the male fitting on the cold flexihose (obviously sat next to a cold iso valve). This male fitting did fit the original brass female coupler.

Just so I am clear, is your concern the male end of the cold flexi hose will not engage with the washer?

View attachment 425119View attachment 425120

The loose ring connector you linked to goes inside the fitting a bit. If the male fitting won't take a pipe with a nut and olive then it probably won't take the connector either. You could try it though and see it it fits.