Lathe tools.

[conny]

Always fancied having a go at turning on a lathe. Nothing fancy just maybe some bowls to begin with then maybe move on to other things.

As a retirement present my wife has offered to buy me a small lathe, (thinking of this one, https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-craft-ac305wl-woodturning-lathe-105119 buth the chisels/gouges they recommend, https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-hss-woodturning-tools-set-400228 are on a four week delivery time.

Can anyone recommend a decent set of tools for a complete beginner? I know I'll probably blunt them at first but I don't want a cheap throwaway type of set.
Whats your opinions on the lathe?

 

[Burnerman]

That looks like a good machine - Axminster tools dont sell rubbish so buy with confidence.
The distance between the centres is pretty good for turning lamp sections or whatever and the hollow tailstock means you can drill through to pass a cable.
The lathe swing is the distance from the centre spindle to the lathe bed and this determines the diameter of any bowl turning.
Id buy the turning tools separately from Axminster too, with their recommendation. Thankfully they arent too difficult to sharpen but you will need a bench grinder to do this. Good tools dont blunt too quickly.
You’ll need a supplier of turning timber too...cherry was my favourite but its a long time since I practiced!
John

 

[Deleted member 174758]

If your pocket runs to it I'd go for a small "set" of 3 or 4 tools: maybe square end scraper (1in), round end scraper (3/4in), skew chisel (1/2 or 3/4in) and a parting tool - all in HSS - to get you started. That should allow you to try out both scraper and chisel turning approaches. Robt. Sorby, Crown and Henry Taylor are good British brands. HSS will hold an edge quite well (better than the old carbon steel tools) and is far less likely to burn if your sharpening technique isn't so wonderful (you'll grind turning tools quite a lot, so you do get better!). You will also need a double-ended bench grinder with something like a pair of ruby wheels in 46 and 80 grits (see O'Donnell ruby wheels here). I'd also recommend getting yourself a full face shield.

Once you've mastered the basics you can then buy and try other tools such as roughing gouges, bowl gouges, etc

 

[conny]

Thanks John. Last time I was involved with a wood lathe was in school nearly 40 years ago. I got the job of brushing down after the teacher had given a demonstration! LOL

Yes I have to admit I like the look of the lathe. Are you saying get the tools with a 4 week lead time or just buy individually?
Plan to start with a few simple bowls of varying diameter/depth to get the feel of things then work up to small table lamps etc. Wife has visions of me on the market with my wares LOL

 

[Burnerman]

Those six tools are exactly what you need, maybe Axminster can supply them individually if you cant wait!
If this machine can be fitted with a sanding disc, so much the better but dust extraction would be needed.
Have you a supplier of elm, cherry or yew close by? Ive done some reasonable turning in my day ( in my opinion, anyway ) but some timber got a shake which destroyed the effect.
John

 

[pete50]

If you have never used a lathe before you might find it easier to use carbide tools. I'm not saying don't buy "proper" tools but they do take a bit of getting used to. The carbide tools will get you up and running quickly while you wait for Axminster to get their finger out and they are cheap enough to bin when you are familiar with a decent set of gouges etc.

 

[conny]

Those six tools are exactly what you need, maybe Axminster can supply them individually if you cant wait!
If this machine can be fitted with a sanding disc, so much the better but dust extraction would be needed.
Have you a supplier of elm, cherry or yew close by? Ive done some reasonable turning in my day ( in my opinion, anyway ) but some timber got a shake which destroyed the effect.
John

My landlord is a farmer so I imagine he might have some on the estate possibly or would it have to be fully seasoned?

 

[Burnerman]

It is certainly worth scouting around - anything will do to get you started!
The traditionalists get their piece of timber, rough it to shape on a bandsaw and then leave it to slowly season over a couple of years. Personally I could never wait that long!
I guess there will be a fair bit of ash kicking around, courtesy of the 'die back' but I don't know how suitable that would be.
John

 

[EddieM]

Can't offer you any advice on woodturning I'm afraid, but I can wish you a long, happy & healthy retirement

 

[conny]

Thanks Ed, I hope so too. Pity there wasn't a 'wealthy' in there! LOL

 

[EddieM]

Thanks Ed, I hope so too. Pity there wasn't a 'wealthy' in there! LOL

Healthy is wealthy mate

 

[conny]

This is very true Ed.

 

[conny]

Burnerman, hope you can advise as I am a bit confused. I was glancing through some books in town yesterday and one of them said for bowl turning the grain should be at right angles to the bed. Another one said it should be parallel to the bed. I've looked at suppliers of circular blanks and they seem to be cut with the grain parallel to the table.
Does it matter which way the grain runs and if so which is the better way?

 

[Gerrydelasel]

Having done the same thing as you, I find the tools I use most are: roughing gouge, spindle gouge (sounds like you should get a bowl gouge though since you want to make bowls), parting tool (get the thinnest you can find, mine is about 1/5" which is too big really, wastes a lot of material). I have a skew chisel but the tool I'd MUCH rather have is a sort of wide (3/4"), square-ended chisel that I saw on a video, but I don't know what it's called or where to find one! Possibly it's a wide beading chisel??

 

[Burnerman]

Burnerman, hope you can advise as I am a bit confused. I was glancing through some books in town yesterday and one of them said for bowl turning the grain should be at right angles to the bed. Another one said it should be parallel to the bed. I've looked at suppliers of circular blanks and they seem to be cut with the grain parallel to the table.
Does it matter which way the grain runs and if so which is the better way?

I’ve little enough experience of this Im afraid, but most blanks seem to have the grain parallel to the bed, and the end grain secured to the headstock......sorry I cant give any particular opinion!
John