Hi,
My CH system is a sealed pressurised system and recently one of the isolation valves (Approx 10 years old) next to the CH pump has started dripping from the slotted screw used to open/close the ball valve inside. From reading this seems to be quite a common problem with these type of valves and I want to replace them with the gate valve equivalents.
The leak has got to the point where the system no longer maintains the 1bar pressure so I need to change them ASAP. Is it possible to change these valves without draining down the system?
If I close the better of the two valves and undo the faulty valve some water will escape which I can collect but this in theory should stop after a few mins when a vacuum is created in the system allowing me to swap the valve. Once the new valve is in place I plan to close it and repeat the procedure on the other ball valve. Will this procedure work?
Once I fit the new valves I need to bleed the pump and perhaps some of the radiators while re-pressurising the system using the filler loop.
Do I need to bleed the boiler (Ideal classic FF240) or will any airlocks in the boiler pipework/heat exchanger get pushed into one of the rads? I notice that the pipe work entering and leaving the boiler at the top have elbows in place which have a slotted screw going into the end of each of them. Is this intended for bleeding the pipework as it is the highest point in the system?
Thanks in advance for the advice.
My CH system is a sealed pressurised system and recently one of the isolation valves (Approx 10 years old) next to the CH pump has started dripping from the slotted screw used to open/close the ball valve inside. From reading this seems to be quite a common problem with these type of valves and I want to replace them with the gate valve equivalents.
The leak has got to the point where the system no longer maintains the 1bar pressure so I need to change them ASAP. Is it possible to change these valves without draining down the system?
If I close the better of the two valves and undo the faulty valve some water will escape which I can collect but this in theory should stop after a few mins when a vacuum is created in the system allowing me to swap the valve. Once the new valve is in place I plan to close it and repeat the procedure on the other ball valve. Will this procedure work?
Once I fit the new valves I need to bleed the pump and perhaps some of the radiators while re-pressurising the system using the filler loop.
Do I need to bleed the boiler (Ideal classic FF240) or will any airlocks in the boiler pipework/heat exchanger get pushed into one of the rads? I notice that the pipe work entering and leaving the boiler at the top have elbows in place which have a slotted screw going into the end of each of them. Is this intended for bleeding the pipework as it is the highest point in the system?
Thanks in advance for the advice.
