Leaking miniature valve

[Monkeysoon]

I've just discovered that 1 of the miniature valves on the pipe leading to the kitchen rad is leaking - from the thread. What can be done as a temporary remedy? Anyone?

 

[Softus]

Do you mean the radiator valve, or is there an additional valve along the pipework to the valve, such as a "ball-o-fix" valve?

If the latter, and if you're lucky, then nipping up the nut a little might stop the leak. If you're unlucky then the pipe will be out of shape and worn out, with the olive hardly onto the pipe, and the olive will be squashed as a result of someone using too much force, and when you try and move it you'll make it worse, and when you try again, the pipe will collapse and release the contents of your heating system onto the carpet.

You might want to play safe and either drain the system first or freeze the pipework on either side of the valve. Of you could bung it.

 

[Monkeysoon]

Hi
Thanks for the quick reply. I am referring to the 'latter' - the valve that allows you to replace a rad easily. The leak is coming out of the thread - the bit you turn with a screwdriver, so I don't see how 'nipping' the nut will help?

 

[JohnD]

Undo it and remake the joint? You will have to do some draining down or bunging.

How long has it been leaking, and when was it fitted?

Might it be loose?

When you say miniature, do you mean like

edited: bah, too late

p.s. if it is leaking round the spindle, you may as well fit a new one.

 

[Softus]

I am referring to the 'latter' - the valve that allows you to replace a rad easily.

Eh? A radiator valve allows you to replace a radiator - there's no need for any additional valve.

The leak is coming out of the thread - the bit you turn with a screwdriver, so I don't see how 'nipping' the nut will help?

It won't, but I would call the part that houses the spindle a "thread".

Ensure that the valve is full open - the slot should be in line with the pipework. If it's only weeping slowly then it might scale up and stop - if so then just leave it alone until you next need to drain down. If it doesn't stop then see my earlier comments.

 

[gas4you]

Could be that op has one of the old lockshields that are set with a flat bladed screwdriver. In this case OP I would replace entire valve.

 

[Monkeysoon]

Yes its its the same as the one in the picture - a miniature valve. The leak is coming from the spindle/thread and shows no sign of abating. Is replacing the thing my only option? I don't profess to be particularly proficient at plumbing. How easy will this be, bearing in mind copper pipe isnt exactly..flexible?
I thought these things were supposed to make things easier!

 

[gas4you]

Yes replace it. Things that are desigened to make life easy only do so if they work

 

[Softus]

Yes its its the same as the one in the picture...

I very much doubt that it's the same, because the pictured one is a tap connector combined with spherical valve.

...a miniature valve.

It very much isn't a miniature valve.

The leak is coming from the spindle/thread and shows no sign of abating. Is replacing the thing my only option?

Yes.

I don't profess to be particularly proficient at plumbing.

In that case don't attempt to freeze it. Bunging is an option though.

How easy will this be, bearing in mind copper pipe isnt exactly..flexible?

Are you saying that both parts of the pipework are captured and that you won't be able to withdraw either from the valve? If so then you'll need to drain down and remove the pipe from the radiator valve to release it.

I thought these things were supposed to make things easier!

The valve you've got is superfluous to your needs. Frankly, I'd remove it permanently. If you really want to have a valve there, then fit a top quality full-bore spherical valve, such a lever ball valve. You can always remove the lever to make it look prettier.

 

[Monkeysoon]

According to Collins complete plumbing that is called a miniature valve! Anyway whatever it is, this particular one is just 2 years old and I'm not impressed.
And yes both parts of the pipe are captured - well they would be wouldn't they! I've tried duck tape - it was useless. Bunging? Could you be more specific please.

Cheers

 

[Softus]

Bunging is an alternative to fully draining down. The principle is that you prevent air and water from entering the heating system, and use atmospheric pressure to prevent water escaping from it.

In practise, you do it by putting a rubber stopper in the outlet from the F&E cistern, and another one in the end of the vent pipe, then drain water until it stops coming out. You can get a kit that includes enough rubber bungs.

If you have a pressurised system then the principle is the same but the method different.

Once 'bunged', shut off the nearest rad valve and then set about removing your leaking valve.

If you've done no compression plumbing before then you'd get some confidence by practising first on some dummy pipework.

 

[gas4you]

Turn off cold fill to heating system with fitted gate valve, if you do not have one then put a carrot into the outlet pipe in the header tank. Then put another carrot into the open vent pipe, or fit a speedfit stop end.

No air in = no water out (or very little)

 

[Monkeysoon]

In other words I'm going to have to replace the beggar. Hang on - as a temporary measure can I not turn both the valves off (horizontal thread) on the 2 pipes (running up the wall) supplying his particular rad? Being summer (haha) I can do without that rad for a few months. Will the rest of the rads continue to operate normally if I do that?

 

[gas4you]

Yes, but how is that going to stop the leak from the spindle

 

[Monkeysoon]

That is a good question - I think that it only leaks when the spindle is open. I know it doesn't make sense does it? IF that is the case, should this work?