Length of gas pipe for boiler in loft??

[Bops]

I currently have a back boiler which I intend replacing with a Worcester Greenstar 30CDI conventional boiler installed in the loft.
I have read some threads about putting in a separate isolation point to isolate the boiler alone and this seems like a good idea. I have god flor boards, lighting and loft ladders etc so no problems here.

My problem is with the length of gas pipe I will have to use. The gas pipe from the meter to the existing boiler is about 11m in length at 22mm. To go into the loft I intend connecting to the existing pipe and extending. This will make the pipe length about 18m at 22mm. Is this OK or will I have to reroute the pipework?

Also, Is there a minimum height that the feed and expansion cistern needs to be above the boiler?

TIA for any advice.

 

[ChrisR]

You have to be "competent" to do this sort of thing, even in your own home. By what you're asking, you'd be best advised to get a corgi in.

It sounds like you'll need a new 28mm pipe all the way, fitted correctly!

See //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=39197#39197

 

[Bops]

ChrisR
Thanks for the speedy reply.
I am only a DIYer and not CORGI registered. I am looking at doing most of the work myself - fixing boiler, water pipes, condesing waste pipe and flue. I would be getting a CORGI guy in to do gas connection and commissioning work. My main concern is whether I am complicating the gas connection by putting the boiler so far away from the gas meter. From what you say, I would need 28mm gas pipe all the way to the boiler so would not be able to re-use existing pipework which is 22mm.

Rgds

 

[Agile]

No CORGI should be commissioning a boiler that you have installed or connecting a gas pipe you fitted!

By law he has to do a minimum of fit the mounting bracket, assemble and fit the flue, install and connect the gas supply and commission then notify CORGI.

You should contact the CORGI at the planning stage so that he can advise on siting and gas pipe sizing. We would charge about £180 for that and probably more if the gas supply was very long.

Tony

 

[Bops]

Tony.
Thanks for your reply. I didn't know that CORGI had to do the fixings and flue etc.
From reading a number of postings on DIY sites I got the impression that a competent DIYer could do most of the work themselves but needed a CORGI to do the gas. (I understand that they will want to do the jointing also).
From what you say, I would only be able to do the water and condensate pipe work, as well as possibly supply parts, although depending on the CORGI guy, I expect they may want to provide their own.
Any other advice appreciated.

 

[Agile]

We aid DIyers by agreeing that they can cut and fit the gas supply pipe and only leave the joints for us to solder and test for gas tightness.

I would have expected that most CORGIs might do the same.

But like many others I have also suffered from the total inadequacies of DIYers.

At one I went there as arranged only to find that he had not filled it with water as he wanted to wait for me to be there! ( Why ??? )

Not unsurprising, although he had a PhD in engineering, there were about five leaking soldered joints and one leaking screwed joint. I had to leave and come back another day so that was a total disaster!

Tony

 

[Bops]

Haven't got a PhD, but can normally stretch to a watertight joint.
Thanks for your input.

 

[corgiman]

Haven't got a PhD, but can normally stretch to a watertight joint.
Thanks for your input.

well you dont want a water tight joint with gas do you

 

[namsag]

come on guys he is winding you up ,he initially says he done a search and came up with isolating valve somehow i think he would have came up with wether he could do all this himself .And he has hit all the right points to get a reaction.. Strange

 

[Agile]

He also wants a F&E tank with the 30cdi.

Much better fitted as a sealed system!

Tony

 

[Bops]

come on guys he is winding you up ,he initially says he done a search and came up with isolating valve somehow i think he would have came up with wether he could do all this himself .And he has hit all the right points to get a reaction.. Strange

I'm not trying to wind anyone up. I'm not too familiar with the terminology and when I say 'isolating valve', all I mean is some way to turn off the gas to the boiler witout having to turn off everything else. Is there a more technical description for it?

The documentation I have from Worcester Bosch Group show a conventional CDi with an F&E cistern, which is good news for me as it exists with the existing boiler.

Not trying to get a reaction - rather information and advice from a great forum.

Cheers.

 

[doitall]

Personally if I had a boiler in the loft the very least I would expect is a gas solenoid wired through a heat detector

 

[ChrisR]

Personally if I had a boiler in the loft the very least I would expect is a gas solenoid wired through a heat detector

Yeah but you're wierd.

 

[doitall]

Personally if I had a boiler in the loft the very least I would expect is a gas solenoid wired through a heat detector

Yeah but you're wierd.

Thats what they all say

 

[bengasman]

chances are that a 30 kw output is far more than what you need, how did you get to this size?