Level out brick course

[moconnell]

I've got a shed/workshop foundation (4x5 rectangle) https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/how-to-pour-concrete-footings.545673/page-3#post-4844351 poured that was completed but wasn't exactly the most evenly poured ... As a result and partly as I am laying in a trench I've laid 3 rows all round that are higher on one side than another - result is basically row 3 on one side, by the time it comes round to other side is at row 4 hieght...so I can never get to a one flat row all the way round.
See for yourself

This is all below ground at the momment so there is time to save it before it could be seen.

What solutions have people got?
I 'm thinking of:
gradual sliced bricks to even it out slowly

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Usual trick is thicker beds at the low end, 70mm to make up over 3 courses (plus the bottom) is doable, always best to check for level before you start...might be easiest to pull those 3 courses and start again.
If you don't like the idea of thick beds I'd suggest get some concrete blocks for the below ground and trim them to height, no risk of ending up with skinny little slivers of brick, quicker, easier, cheaper...

 

[moconnell]

might be easiest to pull those 3 courses and start again.

Yeah I can't face doing that mentally.. I'm gonna remove the centre soil down to first layer and will get a better view of it..

 

[stuart45]

You need some datum pegs set at DPC level. Measure down from the pegs to the concrete and build up the corners to them. If you have 6 in one corner and 5 in another it's known as a pig, grunter, Billy Bunter etc. Just put the lines up so you have 4 above in all corners and run the bottom in to the line using cuts, slate, brick on edge etc and then above will work out

 

[Mr Chibs]

. Just put the lines up so you have 4 above in all corners and run the bottom in to the line using cuts, slate, brick on edge etc and then above will work out

Stuart

Would you mind explaining the bit above a bit more, I don’t fully get it.
I understand the datum pegs. And lines.

 

[stuart45]

You have 6 courses in one corner and 5 at the other, but are level. Put the line at 4 down from the top and then run in to the line. As the joint gets bigger, use some slate to build it up, or a brick on edge to keep to the line. As you get to the other end tighten up the joints for 2 courses till you get to the other end. Then you will have 4 courses over the line and it will run in.

 

[Mr Chibs]

Cheers. Like the diagram. Top fella.

 

[moconnell]

Cheers guys but it's not like the corners are level right now it's like a spiral
I'm trying to give a bit of headroom by stepping down in to the workshop so I'm removing the earth in the centre so will be able to see the deviation better when it's not in a hole.

 

[Mr Chibs]

Cheers guys but it's not like the corners are level right now it's like a spiral
I'm trying to give a bit of headroom by stepping down in to the workshop so I'm removing the earth in the centre so will be able to see the deviation better when it's not in a hole.

Reading your original post and seeing Stuart’s post, I think you’d be better starting again.

I’ve built small walls before and struggled getting things as neat and level, usually as I’ve started off badly. (Won’t now thanks to Stuart’s diagram).

If you are he’ll bent on keeping what you’ve already to built (being a brick out), I’m wondering if you could do the next course out of blocks, and cut these to get it all level. Then continue with brick/block wood.

it’s a bit of faff, but doable no doubt.

 

[moconnell]

blocks, and cut these to get it all level

Thanks I think that might be my best option and no one will see it anyway. Already used this technique to workaround a high point at the front earlier.

 

[John D v2.0]

Cheers guys but it's not like the corners are level right now it's like a spiral

Not helpful at all (sorry) - but maybe you can get in touch with this builder!

 

[moconnell]

with this builder

He taught me everything I know. Escher bond?

 

[jeds]

Honestly, take it down and start again. You might be able to reclaim the bricks whilst the mortar is still green. Set out a datum at each corner. Lay first course to take out the roughness of the concrete and bring the level closer to datum. You might not get it level but it gives you a flat surface to work off. Adjust bed joints if necessary. Once you've got a flat surface work out the highest and lowest corner and divide courses by x to give you bed joints needed at each corner to bring it to level. Make a gauge rod for each corner. Bring up the corners and lay the runs to a line.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Yeah I can't face doing that mentally.. I'm gonna remove the centre soil down to first layer and will get a better view of it..

I can understand that feeling but you'll be looking at that wall for a long time,trying to correct it at current height will be a bit visible... honestly, take the pain now, reward will be a much neater job (and a much easier fix)

 

[kingandy2nd]

Might be the video angles, but that brick line looks wavy anyway, so going to be an awful wall anyway.

As others have said, take them up.

7nm blocks under ground and just cut them with an angle grinder to the angles to compensate for your foundations will be easier than you think and get you level
on one course.

A water level for £10 is a great purchase to get you set out right with your lines and levels.

Good luck