Light Weight Wall Structure

[rustyh]

Hi,

I have an industrial unit which has a mezzanine floor, I'm looking to add walls and suspended ceiling to make an enclosed space, which I'm going to build myself

I know a steel frame wall system would probably be the best option here, but I don't really have the money to hire contractors for the steel frame, etc.

I was therefore wondered what materials options I have. Obviously the walls need to look decent on the inside, but the exterior will also be seen (is completely indoors by the way)

I was thinking maybe a stud wall, plaster boarded both side with insulation between, but I have a feeling that would get quite heavy.

Or insulated backed plasterboard, have the insulation foam facing outwards and painting it, with the plasterboard inside.

Dunno really, just looking for ideas / help

Cheers

 

[RNReindeer]

The metal stud system is a relatively straightforward DIY poject.
http://www.buildingmaterials.co.uk/metal-stud.html

To avoid the filling of tapered PB joints you could consider a decorative cover strip down the joints and use square edged.

Alternatively you could consider office partitioning systems
http://www.apton-partitioning.co.uk/office-partition/framed
A bit pricey though.

Decide whether your ceiling will be truly "suspended" or the ceiling joists will rest on the top of the walls, and the walls therefore need to be a bit loadbearing.

I don't think that insulation backed plaster board will accept paint on the insulation side. Maybe several coats but it will always look naff, IMO.
And perhaps not much lighter than two layers of PB.

As a covering you could also consider fair-faced plyboard.
http://www.avonply.co.uk/Client Area/ASP/Plywood.aspx?gclid=CI_iqrX1wsICFSSWtAodfXMA7Q#
I would think you'd need to consider 9mm as a minimum thickness. But that's just a guess and would depend on the stiffness of the studwork.
It's more expensive than PB.

 

[rustyh]

Hi Reindeer,

The metal stud system looks perfect, ive even read that its cheaper than wood!!!

One question, i wont be able to secure the top channel to anything (as the industrial unit roof is alot higher), would this still have the strength to keep the walls standing!!

i also notice you can get ceiling members as part of the metal stud assemblies, but all the examples ive seen have plasterboard screwed to them. Would it be possible to use ceiling tile grid system instead.
This might help secure the walls better as well as I can attached one end of the ceiling beam to a solid wall, them bolt the other spanned end to the stud frame

 

[RNReindeer]

Hi Reindeer,

The metal stud system looks perfect, ive even read that its cheaper than wood!!!

One question, i wont be able to secure the top channel to anything (as the industrial unit roof is alot higher), would this still have the strength to keep the walls standing!!

I assume, you mean "twisting" because the uprights certainly have sufficient strength to support the top channel.
Before it's installed, you can twist the channels, i.e. holding a length in two hands you can twist it by rotating each hand in opposite directions.
But once it's installed with uprights those uprights prevent any twisting. You can not bend it before you install it and certainly not after it's installed with uprights.
The face covering will give it further rigidity.
In this video you can some DIY person constructing a wall with steel framing without fixing the top channel, albeit only 1 metre high..
http://www.ronhazelton.com/tips/how_to_work_with_metal_or_steel_framing

To provide additional rigidity install face covering vertically on one side and horizontally on t'other.

i also notice you can get ceiling members as part of the metal stud assemblies, but all the examples ive seen have plasterboard screwed to them. Would it be possible to use ceiling tile grid system instead.
This might help secure the walls better as well as I can attached one end of the ceiling beam to a solid wall, them bolt the other spanned end to the stud frame

I've never used the ceiling members but a suspended ceiling is suspended from something above it, which could easily be some of the ceiling members but you'd need to check on finished heights before deciding.
You might have to work out the drop of a suspended ceiling and provide sufficient blocking at the top of the walls to raise the cross members from which to suspend you ceiling.

Additionally, you could install diagonal braces above the ceiling to give futher rigidity.

BTW, you can mix and match timber with the steel framing. Either timber top and bottom with steel uprights, or steel uprights with timber top and/or bottom pieces.

 

[rustyh]

just got to say, massive thanks for all this info. Im been studying this over the last couple of days, and definately going to give the metal stud a go.

I dont really want to have to have to have the whole room plastered, so what I was planning on doing is just having plasterboard panels painted (full floor to ceiling length) with the edges / gaps filled with a nice white or silver trim or something.

Is there a strong permenent glue I can stick the plasterboard to the metal studs??

I cant seem to find anything that I cvan use as the trim I mention above, any ideas?

 

[RNReindeer]

I don't know any alternative to screws for fixing PB to stud work.

The screwheads/holes are relatively quick and simple to fill.
I tend to do: first pass with filler, primer, second pass with filler (this is usually sufficient for screwheads) first coat of paint, third pass with filler if required, top coat of paint.

Just ensure that you:
don't install screws wonkey, you'll have difficulty filling,
don't insert screws too near to the edge of the board, but consider the capping strip covering them,
tighten screws sufficently without breaking paper, check each one is below surface,
don't slip off with screwdriver, you'll make holes that'll need filling,
use correct screwdriver bit and correct torque setting.

Don't forget to use square edge board if using capping strips.
Any reasonable DIY shed will have suitable capping strips.
Also try fascia/soffit/uPVC suppliers. They might come in 5 metre lengths but can usually be folded, without breaking, for transport.

Here's a sample of what's available:
http://www.plasticbuildingsupplies.com/collections/pvc-architrave-and-upvc-trim

Use D mouldings for flat cappings, quadrant for internal corners, architrave around doors.
I would use MDF ready painted skirting available from any builders merchant.

Builders adhesive should be sufficient for fixing these.

Don't forget to use rubber grommets in the metal stud work for any wiring.

Finally think ahead and plan the corners.
Your corner studwork should look something like this to allow external and internal fixing of PB.

Untitled

• RNReindeer
• 18 Dec 2014
• 1