Lime repointing colour issues

[danlightbulb]

Hi all.

Im going to be repointing my house in nhl3.5 lime.

I've done some samples using different sands available locally and the colour is coming out way different than expected.

I don't know how to make it better.

The sands I'm using have some colour to them. See picture attached of the dried building, sharp or plastering sands picked up from local stores.

But when mixed with lime its taking almost all the colour out and making them a pale off white or dull grey colour, not much different to the poor cement slop already on the house.

This is not what the mix looks like when I see videos of people doing it on YouTube. I can't repoint with this it will look terrible.

What can I try next to fix this?

 

[noseall]

Hi all.

Im going to be repointing my house in nhl3.5 lime.

I've done some samples using different sands available locally and the colour is coming out way different than expected.

I don't know how to make it better.

The sands I'm using have some colour to them. See picture attached of the dried building, sharp or plastering sands picked up from local stores.

But when mixed with lime its taking almost all the colour out and making them a pale off white or dull grey colour, not much different to the poor cement slop already on the house.

This is not what the mix looks like when I see videos of people doing it on YouTube. I can't repoint with this it will look terrible.

What can I try next to fix this?

Is any of that soft building sand?

 

[danlightbulb]

Yes one is building sand, one is sharp sand, one is plastering sand and one is kiln dried fine sand just for colour comparison.

I was hoping to use a mix of sharp and building sands.

However the colour issue is what I'm trying to resolve. The whole thing is a no go if I can't get a nice colour.

 

[noseall]

Yes one is building sand, one is sharp sand, one is plastering sand and one is kiln dried fine sand just for colour comparison.

I was hoping to use a mix of sharp and building sands.

However the colour issue is what I'm trying to resolve. The whole thing is a no go if I can't get a nice colour.

Building sand - yes.

Plastering sand/sharp sand NO.

 

[Charlie George]

Sharp sand - yes all the specialists use it
Building sand - sometimes a little can be added to improve workability

 

[stuart45]

When it's hit with the churn brush it exposes more of the aggregate. Different NHL manufacturers produce slightly different colours of lime.
When you mix it up, mix it dry for 5 minutes. Then add enough water so it's not balling up, but just a touch too dry. Leave it mixing for about 15 minutes to get some air into the mix, and then let it rest for 20 minutes to fatten up. Then give it a mix for another 5 minutes adding water if needed.
When you hit it with the churn brush, the brush should stay clean. If not the joints are still too wet. If I've finished for the day and they are still a bit wet, I rub them gently with a piece of hessian. Then the next day if they are a bit hard, I can still get the look of exposed aggregate with the churn brush without hitting the wall too hard.

 

[danlightbulb]

Building sand - yes.

Plastering sand/sharp sand NO.

Sharp sand - yes all the specialists use it
Building sand - sometimes a little can be added to improve workability

Thanks for the replies but to be clear I'm not asking about types of sand, it's the colour I need to solve.

I will be using some mix of both sharp and soft - all the specialist stuff ice seen includes some coarser aggregate when working with lime.

When it's hit with the churn brush it exposes more of the aggregate. Different NHL manufacturers produce slightly different colours of lime.
When you mix it up, mix it dry for 5 minutes. Then add enough water so it's not balling up, but just a touch too dry. Leave it mixing for about 15 minutes to get some air into the mix, and then let it rest for 20 minutes to fatten up. Then give it a mix for another 5 minutes adding water if needed.
When you hit it with the churn brush, the brush should stay clean. If not the joints are still too wet. If I've finished for the day and they are still a bit wet, I rub them gently with a piece of hessian. Then the next day if they are a bit hard, I can still get the look of exposed aggregate with the churn brush without hitting the wall too hard.

I can't risk putting this mortar in the wall until I can be sure what colour it's going to be. You can see from my picture the sands have colour but it's not coming through in the lime mortar at all.

 

[noseall]

Thanks for the replies but to be clear I'm not asking about types of sand, it's the colour I need to solve.

The whole thing is a no go if I can't get a nice colour.

What do you consider a 'nice' colour?

Bear in mind that if you overcomplicate the blending process, you will make it difficult for yourself.

 

[Charlie George]

What colour are you trying to achieve? most seem to use a natural colour or buff, you seem to be doing the right thing with samples as obviously the sand will determine the colour, also try a sample on the actual brickwork, as that will show a truer finish.

 

[danlightbulb]

I just want a sandy brown. Perhaps could describe it as a dirty yellow. I don't want a bright white or bright yellow or creamy mortar that will really stand out against the bricks. Not grey.

 

[Charlie George]

I just want a sandy brown. Perhaps could describe it as a dirty yellow. I don't want a bright white or bright yellow or creamy mortar that will really stand out against the bricks. Not grey.

Point a few brick with no 2 and let it dry for a few days, looks good? to me, but it could be the screen, and is the original mortar lime or sand and cement?