Locating FCUs in cupboards

[mfarrow]

One thing though, if you have the socket outlet for the appliance tucked behind the appliance, this makes future inspection and testing more time consuming and/or awkward.

True, but it's something only to consider every ten years on average (or even never in some cases)

The appliance will still have its own fuse in the plug. So if a fuse blows, it could still mean that you have to remove the appliance to get at it.

If a fuse blows the appliance is probably knackered anyway, and I wouldn't consider replacing the fuse without first seeking what the problem is.

BAS has given you some neat and practical ideas.

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

One thing though, if you have the socket outlet for the appliance tucked behind the appliance, this makes future inspection and testing more time consuming and/or awkward.

True, but it's something only to consider every ten years on average (or even never in some cases)

Not true. It should be considered at the point of installation. I&T may be required for reasons other than a PIR. What about addition or alteration to the existing installation, e.g. customer wants something added to that circuit? What about faults elsewhere that may then require unplugging the device for e.g. a IR test? This could be at any time, not just every 5 or or 10 years

The appliance will still have its own fuse in the plug. So if a fuse blows, it could still mean that you have to remove the appliance to get at it.

If a fuse blows the appliance is probably knackered anyway,

not true.

and I wouldn't consider replacing the fuse without first seeking what the problem is.

but the point is not whether to replace the fuse or not. Its to do with accessing the fuse to see if it is faulty or not in the first place. e.g. washing machine decides not to work/no lights on control, whats the first thing you would do? check the fuse, or go buy a new washing machine?

BAS has given you some neat and practical ideas.

Do you mean me? - no he didn't

mfarrow, what do you think to the ideas which i gave to the OP. (just incase you didn't notice that, its the part of my post which you chose not to quote.) On a scale of simplicity and cost, how do you think my idea rates compared with the other options mentioned here?

 

[spada01]

Spada,

As others have said, its permissable to install FCUs in cupboards. Just the same way as installing socket outlets is OK.

One thing though, if you have the socket outlet for the appliance tucked behind the appliance, this makes future inspection and testing more time consuming and/or awkward. The appliance will still have its own fuse in the plug. So if a fuse blows, it could still mean that you have to remove the appliance to get at it. IF you have integrated appliances, this could be a big PITA (thinks:- removing plinths, door fronts, hinges etc...)

Why don't you consider doing away with all those un-necessary FCUs and simply mount socket outlets in their place and plug the appliances directly into them? Make holes through the gable sides of the base units large enough to pass a plug through, simple.

Far easier and still compliant with the regs.

Thanks folks. This route sounds pretty cost effective and still leaves everything accessible. I'll make the holes in the cabinet gabels even smaller by running just the appliance flex through and then putting the plug on

Thanks again everyone!

 

[holmslaw]

..

 

[mfarrow]

Not true. It should be considered at the point of installation. I&T may be required for reasons other than a PIR. What about addition or alteration to the existing installation, e.g. customer wants something added to that circuit? What about faults elsewhere that may then require unplugging the device for e.g. a IR test? This could be at any time, not just every 5 or or 10 years

If you install DP isolators then you can isolate that part of the circuit fully for fault finding, and join the lines/reduced voltage test for PIR. Even so the appliance will have enough flex on it to be able to be pulled out - it's only the equivalent of an outlet at the back of a cooker.

but the point is not whether to replace the fuse or not. Its to do with accessing the fuse to see if it is faulty or not in the first place. e.g. washing machine decides not to work/no lights on control, whats the first thing you would do? check the fuse, or go buy a new washing machine?

As I said unless you've got a tired fuse which has been repeatedly subjected to overload then fuses don't go by themselves, and I would rather someone call an engineer or buy a new machine than exasperate a fault by trying new (and possibly bigger) fuses.

BAS has given you some neat and practical ideas.

Do you mean me? - no he didn't

Here......and here.

mfarrow, what do you think to the ideas which i gave to the OP. (just incase you didn't notice that, its the part of my post which you chose not to quote.)

Not as elegant as BAS's, and it's not obvious or convenient to an ordinary person where the point of isolation might be. Also some people (girlfriend's mum included) like turning off certain appliances in the kitchen after they've used them.

On a scale of simplicity and cost, how do you think my idea rates compared with the other options mentioned here?

Yours is the simplest and cheapest to install.

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

Not true. It should be considered at the point of installation. I&T may be required for reasons other than a PIR. What about addition or alteration to the existing installation, e.g. customer wants something added to that circuit? What about faults elsewhere that may then require unplugging the device for e.g. a IR test? This could be at any time, not just every 5 or or 10 years

If you install DP isolators then you can isolate that part of the circuit fully for fault finding,

If you don't, but simply do as i suggest, then you can still do the same anyway, minus the cost and effort of installing a grid switch

and join the lines/reduced voltage test for PIR.

Im unsure what that means? What is 'a reduced voltage test for PIR'?

Even so the appliance will have enough flex on it to be able to be pulled out

What about integrated appliances? They may not be so easy to just pull out. (please note comment i previously made regards plinths, door fronts etc.)Also, using the method I suggested, there would be no need to guess whether there is enough flex to allow the appliance to be pulled out at all as it wouldn't be necessary.

.- it's only the equivalent of an outlet at the back of a cooker.

slightly similar, but not really the same. A cooker may not be fitted with a standard 13A plug

but the point is not whether to replace the fuse or not. Its to do with accessing the fuse to see if it is faulty or not in the first place. e.g. washing machine decides not to work/no lights on control, whats the first thing you would do? check the fuse, or go buy a new washing machine?

As I said unless you've got a tired fuse which has been repeatedly subjected to overload then fuses don't go by themselves

but to suggest that if a fuse has gone the appliance is probably knackered is a bit silly

if and I would rather someone call an engineer or buy a new machine than exasperate a fault by trying new (and possibly bigger) fuses.

again, not really the point. Would you call an engineer prior to checking the fuse in a plug?

BAS has given you some neat and practical ideas.

Do you mean me? - no he didn't

Here......and here.

You seem to have made the assumption that I was unaware of the option BAS suggested prior to him mentioning it in this thread, this is wholly incorrect. (BTW, im not criticising BAS suggestion, it is perfectly valid, just not my preferred method)

mfarrow, what do you think to the ideas which i gave to the OP. (just incase you didn't notice that, its the part of my post which you chose not to quote.)

Not as elegant as BAS's,

Quite the opposite, whereas BAS's suggestion would leave a neat grid switch visible on the wall, my suggestion leaves NO switches on the wall, how can this be less elegant?

and it's not obvious or convenient to an ordinary person where the point of isolation might be

Why would a stranger in the OP's kitchen need to isolate the circuit the appliance is connected to in normal circumstances? What task requires this?

Also some people (girlfriend's mum included) like turning off certain appliances in the kitchen after they've used them.

Well, thats just a bit silly and OCDish of the user. Do they not trust the controls on the appliance to do what they should do?

On a scale of simplicity and cost, how do you think my idea rates compared with the other options mentioned here?

Yours is the simplest and cheapest to install.

Thats what the OP thought aswell, cheers

 

[RF Lighting]

Just for the record, BASs elegant grid switches were actually installed by RF Lighting.

Personally I think they're a great idea, and I have them in my kitchen at home.

They are really useful.