Locks Locks Locks - which one?

[rodneyja59]

Ok I need to replace some locks on final exit doors. However I know I need sash locks to replace what I have, but looking at www.screwfix.com I'm confused?

How do I know if I need 2 1/2 or 3 inch ?

What do they mean by S/S or P/B lock ?

Or NP and EB type lock ?

Anybody- thanks

 

[Diyisfun]

If you can take your lock off take it to a locksmith, you should get good advice & remember that your insurance will stipulate a minium requirement for final exit locks.

 

[Dragonrider]

Ok I need to replace some locks on final exit doors. However I know I need sash locks to replace what I have, but looking at www.screwfix.com I'm confused?

How do I know if I need 2 1/2 or 3 inch ?

What do they mean by S/S or P/B lock ?

Or NP and EB type lock ?

Anybody- thanks

Final Exit locks will probably need to be five lever.

2 1/2 or 3 inch? That's the depth of the lock from the plate.

S/S Stainless Steel (I think) P/B Polished Brass

2 1/2" 5 lever lock If you can take the lock out, measure across the lack to find its width.

 

[rodneyja59]

Final Exit locks will probably need to be five lever.

2 1/2 or 3 inch? That's the depth of the lock from the plate.

S/S Stainless Steel (I think) P/B Polished Brass

2 1/2" 5 lever lock If you can take the lock out, measure across the lack to find its width.

5 level is what the insurance company are saying, currently the doors have only 3 level, but I've fitted 2 rack bolts to the rear door.

Those locks are not BS3621, which again the insurance company want. But
5 level lock is what I'm looking at.

I asume to change a 3 to a 5 level its just a case of removing the old and replacing with the new?

 

[Dragonrider]

Those locks are not BS3621, which again the insurance company want. But
5 level lock is what I'm looking at.

I asume to change a 3 to a 5 level its just a case of removing the old and replacing with the new?

Usually, the number of levers in a lock make no difference to the thickness of the lock, usually! Certain between a three and a five anyway. You may need to do a little bit of tweaking, but it should be a case of simply unscrewing the screws from one, easing the old one out, and sliding the new one in before replacing the bar, handles set and screws. If anything, a little judicious work with a chisel may be needed.

 

[salem2000]

The most common locks for timber doors are:

Chubb Mortice Sash Deadlock 3K74

Chubb Mortice Deadlock 3G114

Both locks are 5 lever to BS BS 3621. For more info see link below:

Click Here

 

[masona]

Info on BS3621 mortice locks,

You can always tell if it's a 3 or 5 levers lock by looking at the key, they either have 3 or 5 cut out on the key.

The 2 stainless pin you see inside the brass locking system is to stop anyone using a hacksaw blade between the door & frame when cutting to the stainless steel pin, you cannot cut any farther as the pin keep spining round.

They also have a anti-drill plate on the side of the lock to prevent from drilling the lock out.

 

[gatsovandel]

i would use era shash locks go to wickes diy as they are cheaper just have wicks stamped on the lock face instead of era they are bs and have large dead bolts and large anti drill plates. and the face plate and box striker is larger to cover any holes from old 3 lever locks. hope this helps.

 

[JohnD]

...You can always tell if it's a 3 or 5 levers lock by looking at the key, they either have 3 or 5 cut out on the key.

more than that because they have to operate from both sides. Just looked at mine (5-detainer), it has 9 bits (the middle one is used from both sides) so from one side it uses bits 1-2-3-4-5- and from the other 5-6-7-8-9

My back door is 5-lever but key has 7 bits (some of the levers are the same)

Even a safe lock (operated from one side only) has at least one bit more than levers, the extra one operates the bolt throw.

I agree about the Wickes own-brand, they look good value

The popular Chubb BS locks are part no's as salem2000 says, but they now have an "E" suffix for the extended (20mm) bolt of the newest standard.

If buying a BS lock make sure it is stamped BS3621 - 2004 (is better than the older standard, but some old stock is still around - especially on Ebay where they may look cheap)

There is a range of BS locks on http://www.screwfix.com/cats/A357887/Security/Mortice-Locks/BS-5-Lever-Deadlocksl
and
http://www.screwfix.com/cats/A359606/Security/Mortice-Locks/BS-5-Lever-Sashlocks
The sashlocks are usual on back doors. Front doors usually have a nightlatch as well (Yale type) which is not much good but convenient

If you can only afford one BS lock put it on your Final Exit door, and supplement the locks on the other doors with rack bolts.

However a 3-lever lock is usually intended for a bathrom or bedroom door and is not intended to be secure - feel the weight of it and see how weak it is.

Hide or lock away the keys - never leave them in locks. if you are worried about exit in an emergency you can put a cup-hook for the keys at the top of the door frame, just within reach of the smallest person in the house

p.s.
NP and EB type
these are both cheap options. NP is nickel plate (white metal) EB is Electro Brassed (will go rusty)