Loft flooring for storage

[MikeJC]

Hope this isn't a tired topic, but I want to floor part of my loft for storage only, i.e. fairly light load. The house was built about 1892 and so has joists designed to support the ceiling and not much more - 3" X 2" spaced 15 to 17" apart.

Any recommendations please? I don't want to go overboard with new joists, etc. - not a loft conversion for living space. I'm thinking:

- plywood not chipboard, for more strength, but what grade and thickness?
- maybe some crossbearers perpendicular on top of the joists for strength and to allow space for more insulation, but what size?
- screwed not nailed to avoid damage to the ceiling below.

Is plywood worth the extra expense?
Are crossbearers worth the extra expense?
Would it be OK just to screw some chipboard to the joists?
Is building control required for this sort of thing these days?

Thanks.

 

[David]

Chipboard is generally stronger than ply and you can buy tongue & groove chipboard from all good DIY stores. A point worth remembering is that it's best to fasten the boards down with screws and not nails. This means that you wont have any squeaking boards. Good luck!

 

[big-all]

heeelllooo david
personaly i think ply of the same thickness as chipboard is stronger
having said that flooring grade chipboard is more than up to the job
and because its interlocked at the edges is stronger overall
because a 4foot joint on a joist leaves a week point

and heeellloo mike j c

now i have floored out my loft for storage strait onto 4by2 joists
but underneath my floor is a 3ft wide hall [2 wall for support]
then 6ft in either side is a 10 by 2 timbers as part of the frame
for additional support for marley tiles

the cross timbers are cut into the walls and run accross the joists
so i just screwed the joists to the 10 by2
so there is no greater span than six foot
although in total at 15 ft is realy quite usefull

hope this helps

big all

 

[david and julie]

With my loft (3x2 like yours) I used 4x2 in between the existing( but not fixed to) ceiling bearers. These are packed up at the ends with 2x2 onto the brickwork. I then used chip board on top which is easier to handle.

The finished floor now "floats" meaning any sagging with weight or age will not effect the ceiling.

The only extra expense is the 4x2 and you only need the cheapest rough cut. There is also less chance of damage whilst you are working.