Looking for a switched FCU with blank plate

[Simius]

The missus has converted the area under the stairs (to loft) in my daughter's bedroom into a den/snug kind of thing. At the moment there is a socket fed wall lamp in there with a switch on the cable fed from a double socket.
My daughter is very young with inquisitve little fingers and also likes to pull at the cabel,so I would like to run

a) the lamp off a switched fcu with a blank plate next to it so the lamp would run from the switch on the socket.
or
b)lamp from fcu and use the switch already provided on the cable with a blank plate
or
c)use an fcu with socket and just use one of those plastic baby guards.

So, the question is can you get any kind of fcu/blank plate patraces?

Failing that, can you change the fuse on the cooker switch/socket patraces to a smaller 3amp one?

Hope this makes sense.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

a) the lamp off a switched fcu with a blank plate next to it so the lamp would run from the switch on the socket.

I assume you mean the lamp would run off the FCU? I don't see how replacing a double socket with an FCU, a blanking plate, and another socket achieves anything in terms of inquisitive fingers?

b)lamp from fcu and use the switch already provided on the cable with a blank plate

Yup,

c)use an fcu with socket and just use one of those plastic baby guards.

Again, why an FCU? Why not simply put a guard over the existing double socket?

So, the question is can you get any kind of fcu/blank plate patraces?

No - you'd need to change the twin box for a dual one and put an FCU and a single blanking plate on there, or change it for a 1-gang box and fill the hole.

Failing that, can you change the fuse on the cooker switch/socket patraces to a smaller 3amp one?

Cooker switch??

And how does a 3A fuse mitigate the risks to your daughter from fiddling with the plug?

 

[Simius]

Basically, I'd prefer not to have any holes or plugs. She can already pull plugs out, and then tries to stick things in there.
I'd also like to bury the cable, but I would lose the switch on the cable, hence the switch on the fcu.
Something like this.

http://img395.imageshack.us/my.php?image=socketsd4.jpg

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Do that then. Two single-gang accessories will not fit in a twin box, so you will have to replace the existing back box. Whether you swap it for a single-gang with just the FCU (which will mean filling and decorating) or a dual box with an FCU and a blanking plate (which will mean chopping a wider hole) is up to you.

 

[Simius]

So, no then !
I was think of the future when I/she may want to convert it back to the original double socket, plus it's obviously easier to just change the faceplate.
I think the 2 singles is the best way forward.
Thanks.

 

[kevnurse]

I believe you can buy tamperproof switch boxes, whereby the back of the box is sandwiched between the pattress and the wall. Once the switch is set as required, the box is locked by padlock and the cable(s) comes out of hole(s) in the bottom.

I imagine most electrical trade distributors would hold them.

 

[plugwash]

how about a three module grid plus assemble with a switch module, a fuse carrier module and a flex outlet module?

you will require
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK3703.html
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK4881.html
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK4890.html
http://www.mkelectric.co.uk/products/item.asp?itemid=2717&rangeid=1026
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK3633.html

the grid frame screws to the backbox, the modules clip into the frame and the plate screws on top.

the only downside is that grid plus bits are a bit pricey (note: I only linked tlc because they are a conviniant site to show the various parts, you can probablly get much better prices if you shop arround). It also seems to be tricky to find a supplier who stocks the flex outlet module.

 

[Simius]

Thanks Plugwash, that looks like it could be ideal. I didn't realise they fitted onto normal backboxes.
The problem that arises with replacing the backbox is getting the cables in without cutting the cable hole all the way to the back.

So with a normal ring I assume I fit both tails to the (fuse in) then from the load just put a another feed to the switch?

Actually, thinking about it would I have the tails to the switch then to the fuse.

Thinking about it again, I don't suppose it matters.

Is there a standard?

 

[plugwash]

I would probabllly put the switch first so the fuse carrier was isolated when the switch was off but I don't think it really matters much.