Options for faceplate with FCU

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Thanks to all who helped on my other post about external wiring to a lamp post.

This is related but thought it best to start a new post.

To get the power from inside to outside I was going to replace a socket that we don't use with a switched FCU. However it's currently a 2 gang socket on a wallpapered wall. Searched everywhere and I can't find a 2 gang faceplate where one of the gangs is a switched FCU. I don't really care what the other half of the faceplate is - it can be blank for all I care.

I just don't really want to change the back box to a single, re-plaster etc.

Thanks - again.

Ian
 
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You could use grid plus or similar. It does get a little pricey though.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-3-gang-front-plate-white/82380
http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-3-gang-grid-frame/40024
http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-1-way-20a-dp-grid-switch-white/47279
http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-13a-fuse-unit-grid-module-white/74950
http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-grid-plus-blank-insert-white/95474

Another option would be to replace the double backbox with a dual box (which is slightly wider) and then fit a FCU on one side and a switch on the other. Would depend on your confidence in your ability to remove the box, enlarge the hole and fit the new one without messing up the decor.
 
The grid is a good option.

Another alternative is to leave the socket where it is and carefully cut a single box next to it.

This will all depend on how well you think you can do this without causing damage to the wall.

Question; how do you intend connecting the SWA cable to this single box via the gland? (clue; the gland could be outside)
 
... I was going to replace a socket that we don't use with a switched FCU. However it's currently a 2 gang socket on a wallpapered wall. Searched everywhere and I can't find a 2 gang faceplate where one of the gangs is a switched FCU. I don't really care what the other half of the faceplate is - it can be blank for all I care. ... I just don't really want to change the back box to a single, re-plaster etc.
The question has been asked before and, unfortunately, I don't think that yo'll find what you want, per se.

About the only option I can think of would be to use grid modules - with a 2-gang-socket-sized face place and grid, and installing a DP switch module and a fuse module. I suspect that, with that size plate, it would have to be a 3-way or 4-way plate, in which case you would have to put one or two 'blank inserts' into the unused way(s).

Kind Regards, John
 
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Replacing a double back box with a dual back box only requires the hole to be made a few mm wider. Then a single socket face plate can be fitted along side an FCU.

From the TLC-direct.co.uk site

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AP636.html

AP636.JPG


EDIT just noticed that Pugwash has already suggested this.
 
Replacing a double back box with a dual back box only requires the hole to be made a few mm wider.
Actually around 24mm (aka 'about an inch') wider, I think. Single accessories are quite a lot wider than half a double one.

Kind Regards, John
 
Depending on the depth of the original box the depth may need to be adjusted too (dual backboxes only seem to come in 35mm deep.

But the bit that requires most skill is probablly getting the old box out without damaging the cable or decor.

OTOH it wouldn't surprise me if getting the cable to outside required removing the box anyway.

I like the suggestion of scolmore new media, it seems it's advantage over MK grid plus is you can have a 13A socket as part of your modular arrangement.
 
LAP 13A 1-Gang Fuse Unit Grid Module White
LAP 1-Way 16AX Grid Switch White
LAP 2-Gang Front Plate with 4 Module Aperture White
LAP 13A 1-Gang Unswitched Grid Module White
I make that about £6.30 and it fits a standard double socket box. I used it to get two sockets one heating and one cooling for my beer fermentation controller and easy to assemble and set up. In order to get the temperature controller in the same box I needed a socket box extender as the socket is quite deep but had I not been cramming in a temperature controller as well it would not have needed the extra room. Mita Extension Collars CEC 210W = 10mm and CEC 219W = 19mm
cec110_10_1.jpg
picture is single but part numbers are for double socket version.
 
That looks good.

But I've no idea about grid wiring. The switch and fuse modules are separate modules - so how do you wire them to work as one unit? In fact how would you then further wire the socket module?

Thanks

Ian
 
The obvious way.

Seriously - if you do not understand what an FCU does, where the fuse is and why, what a switch does, you should not be fiddling with your electrics.
 
Of course I know how a switch and a fuse works. I don't know how they work TOGETHER as separate components in a grid system.
 
Since at this point we don't know if original socket is a radial, ring final or spur can't say how to wire. It does not really matter if switch then fuse or fuse then switch since socket terminals likely larger than fuse and switch likely socket replaces original and switch and fuse spurred of socket.

But BAS is right if you need to ask then you should not be doing the job.
 
Of course I know how a switch and a fuse works. I don't know how they work TOGETHER as separate components in a grid system.
It is utterly impossible for both of those assertions to be correct at the same time.
 

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