loose fire door frame

[Newby2]

Hi
There is a door in my kitchen leading to an integral garage. One side of the frame has just become loose. When I open the door, both the architrave and the door lining at the hinge (upper right hand corner of the frame in the photo) are moving away from the wall.

What is the best way to fix it?

What kind of tradesman do I need? door repairer or carpenter?
Thanks for any advice.

 

[JohnD]

I think it needs the old screw(s) taken out, dust and grit removed, and a couple of Frame Fixings and/or expanding foam used to re-fix the lining. You will need to take the architrave out for access to the gap.

Foam is very good because it will not shake loose as a screw might; I'd use both.

I habitually use the pink fire foam all round because as well as fixing and blocking draughts, it also prevent the passage of fire through the gap. A door to an integral garage must be fire resisting. Fire doors are very heavy.

You are asking on a DIY forum, so do it yourself.

Otherwise you could employ a carpenter, chosen by personal recommendation and NOT from an advertising website masquerading as recommendations.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Be very careful when using expanding foam of any type to hold door or window frames. Use only small amounts and only use it if the frame is properly fixed (screwed) first - if you squirt too much in it can expand so much that it physicvally distorts the door casing and makes it difficult to open or close the door, even some builders get this wrong (I kid you not).

John, pink foam hasn't met the fire standards for 15 years now - current requirements are mineral wool and/or intumescent caulk

 

[JohnD]

15 years?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The relevant bits of legislation are the Regulatory Reform (Fire Safety) Order, 2005 and the Building Regulations, 2010. Not sure how they apply in terms of a retro fit, but I suspect that they do apply. I have installed fire door frames since 2007 with AFFF foam, but only in instances where the enitire system has been approved by an insurance underwriter (so very specific foams and one firm I worked for had to perform a burn test to get appropriate approvals). This is apparently because the some foams' fire retardant properties were found to diminish over time, so the recommendation FIRAS issued was not to use them and instead to use mineral wool and/or intumescent caulk in spaces between door casings and masonry/timber frames (again, there are specific recommendations on how/what to apply depending on the size of the gap and rating of the casing)