About 6 months ago, our heating system started losing pressure and i was having to fill the system up about once a day. I called in BG, and they put a leak sealant into the system, to no great effect. Since then, I have had about 8 different plumbers in who have come to the conclusion there is a leak under the concrete floor - the only trouble is there is no visible signs of a leak anywhere. BG then called in Dynorod with thermal imaging and sonar tracing equipment. They found nothing, so Polygon were called in. They came and rather than finding a leak, they found something unusual with the heat exchange vessel/condensate pipe - basically, there was an awful lot of water being released in one go (at least a pint or two). Therefore BG returned and replaced the heat exchange vessel (?). 5 hours later, the pressure was back down to zero. Since then I have had a gas tracer done, and that did not indicate a leak - no gas escaped in over an hour. I am now at my wits end. I am now filling the system up about once every 3 hours when the heating is on, but my gut instinct (but I am no plumber as you probably guessed!) that there is no leak - but what else could it possibly be? It seems that the pressure is lost mainly as the system heats up and cools down. Any help would be appreciated so much you have no idea.
Losing pressure, but no leak detected by gas tracer
- Thread starter Sarah321
- Start date
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its possible that the heat exchanger is leaking and the condensate waste pipe is carrying away the water, if the system isint leaking then it has to be the boiler, (I am assuming that someone has checked the prv isint dripping).
BG have replaced the heat exchanger, but within 5 hours, pressure was back down to zero (at which point I crumpled into a heap on the floor and cried!!) There is one thing which I have just found on this site though, and that's that the seals to the flue on this particular boiler (a Glow Worm ultracom 30hxi) are prone to leaking condense. Also they say that the siphon trap is badly designed and prone to blockage (again condensate leaking). Now please don't think I know what i'm talking about as I have quoted directly, but does this sound possible?
Set the pressure at 1.3 bar and turn the heating on, give it 10 mins then pop outside, can you see a copper pipe sticking out the wall, and is it running/dripping.
What does the pressure rise to when the heating is on.
Hope BG are paying for all this incompetence.
The first thing they should have done, is isolate the boiler and pressure test the system and boiler.
What does the pressure rise to when the heating is on.
Hope BG are paying for all this incompetence.
The first thing they should have done, is isolate the boiler and pressure test the system and boiler.
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I can answer that one straightaway! No, the copper pipe which lets the water out when pressure gets too high isn't leaking when the heating is on. If the pressure is set to 1.3 bar and the heating comes on, it may rise to 1.5 bar, but will soon start dropping again as the water disappears somewhere. BG did disconnect the boiler for 24 hours and leave a container under the pipe leading to the condensate pipe - and no water appeared over the 24 hours - however, I still lost all pressure within 2 hours, which i know would indicate a leak under the floor. However, as I said, the gas tracer test couldn't find one, and I just feel that when the heater is on, we seem to lose an excessive amount of water through the condensate pipe. By the way, i can't thank you enough for trying to help me.
These situations are very easy for a competent engineer to identify when the loss is occuring from.
You say that you called "eight plumbers" ! Where did you get them from? How much were they paid on average?
Tony
You say that you called "eight plumbers" ! Where did you get them from? How much were they paid on average?
Tony
I have had 2 independent plumbers - the one who laid the pipes in the first place (the house is a 4 year-old barn conversion), and the second, i paid a sizeable sum to, and who is my brother's very experienced plumber who i called in in desperation. The rest have all been from BG including the area manager - and I am covered by their insurance, thank goodness, or I would be bankrupt by now. I have also had a plumber from Polygon (formerly Munters) come out as well when the gas tracer was done. The only one i haven't had out now is the man from the Diet Coke ad (shame!!)
on my paperwork, it says 'heat exchanger', and it was replaced on the recommendation of Polygon who found hot water running down the condensate pipe with their thermal imaging camera.
doitall";p="2287435 said:In that case there can only be a limited place for it to go.
Has anyone checked the storage tank in the loft yet.
Slit coil would answer all your question without seeing the job.[/
I have heard that mentioned, but I don't know if it has been looking into. I am now repressurising the system around 4 times a day - does it sound as if the storage tank could still be the case with that much water being lost?
Sarah321";p="2287450 said:In that case there can only be a limited place for it to go.
Has anyone checked the storage tank in the loft yet.
Slit coil would answer all your question without seeing the job.[/
I have heard that mentioned, but I don't know if it has been looking into. I am now repressurising the system around 4 times a day - does it sound as if the storage tank could still be the case with that much water being lost?
It's ever so easy to check, you probably have dirty water in the tank by now for a start.
Next time you top the pressure up put your hand on the cold feed to the cylinder, does it get warmer
If the coil has gone and in light of what you have told us, is the most likely, then the water will be recycled every time you open a tap.
As I said the boiler should have been isolated and the system pressure tested, that at least tell you what you should be looking for.
doitall";p="2287462 said:In that case there can only be a limited place for it to go.
Has anyone checked the storage tank in the loft yet.
Slit coil would answer all your question without seeing the job.[/
I have heard that mentioned, but I don't know if it has been looking into. I am now repressurising the system around 4 times a day - does it sound as if the storage tank could still be the case with that much water being lost?
It's ever so easy to check, you probably have dirty water in the tank by now for a start.
Next time you top the pressure up put your hand on the cold feed to the cylinder, does it get warmer
If the coil has gone and in light of what you have told us, is the most likely, then the water will be recycled every time you open a tap.
As I said the boiler should have been isolated and the system pressure tested, that at least tell you what you should be looking for.
This has been going on so long now, and I've put so much fresh water into the system that I could probably drink it and it be as pure as mountain spring water!!! I have to say though, i have never noticed dirty water, and I have 2 very young children, so I am probably more observant with that kind of thing than i normally wouldbe. I will have to top the pressure up in a bit, and I will grab at every pipe I can find as I'm not sure which the cold feed to the cylinder is. I am pretty sure that they have isolated the boiler and pressurised the system on a number of occasions. The trouble is though that you can pressurise the system to around 1.5 bar, and it won't lose anything for an hour or so, then it will gradually lose a bit and then all of a sudden, the whole lot goes. For example, after BG changed the Heat Exchanger, they left it at 3pm on 1.5. By 5pm it was 1.2. At 7pm it was 0.9. At 8pm it was 0.8, then at 8.15pm, it was back to 0. I am just so sick of it now, it's ruling my life - it's the last thing I do at night, and the first thing I do in the morning. I've even had to make a u-turn in the car as we've been going out for the day and I've forgotten to switch off the heating. I know it is supposed to cut out if it gets too low, but I don't like chancing it. By the way, thank you for your help.
Cylinder still gets my vote. Assuming the guys with the fancy kit know how to use it, and you really don't have a leak under the floor.
If you continue to add fresh water you'll block the system up with sludge and corrosion, then BG will want a powerflush for £700.00 not covered by the insurance.
If you continue to add fresh water you'll block the system up with sludge and corrosion, then BG will want a powerflush for £700.00 not covered by the insurance.
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