Low Voltage Kitchen Lighting

[mrscalex]

Going on the Wickes info leaflet it tells me to establish a new 5 Amp fused connection to the CU or a 3 Amp fused connection to the existing lighting circuit.

Well I don't want to have to go back to the CU and I don't really want to look at a fused unit/switch. Is there another way or any clever ideas for hiding the fused unit?

I want a total of 8 or 10 50 watt lamps so I think I need at least 2 transformers. Can these both be controlled off the 1 switch?

Thanks,

Robert

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Going on the Wickes info leaflet it tells me to establish a new 5 Amp fused connection to the CU or a 3 Amp fused connection to the existing lighting circuit.

Odd that one instruction says 3A, and the other 5. Are these generic instructions, or for a specific product?

Well I don't want to have to go back to the CU and I don't really want to look at a fused unit/switch. Is there another way or any clever ideas for hiding the fused unit?

Put it where it is hidden, but future owners will be unhappy if the fuse blows and they can't find it.

Personally I'd just come straight off the lighting circuit.

I want a total of 8 or 10 50 watt lamps so I think I need at least 2 transformers. Can these both be controlled off the 1 switch?

For 8 or 10 lights, 8 or 10 transformers would be better. Or use mains halogens.

As for the switch, provided it's rated at 3A or more (and I don't think anybody makes one less than 5A) then it can control them all.

 

[fubar]

Going on the Wickes info leaflet it tells me to establish a new 5 Amp fused connection to the CU or a 3 Amp fused connection to the existing lighting circuit.

Those are generic instructions. You have three choices:

1. Extend the existing lighting circuit to connect your kitchen lighting. I'd strongly encourage you to use a BS 546/A plug and socket or a luminaire support coupler (LSC) such as Klik so that the low voltage system can be unplugged for testing/maintenance, etc. You can hide the plug/socket out of sight near the transformer

2. Fit a new 5A (or 6A) MCB at the consumer unit and connect your kitchen lighting to this.

3. Spur off the kitchen power via a 3A FCU.

 

[mrscalex]

Thanks for the replies.

The kitchen is fully dismantled for a total re-fit, including ceilings down so I have the luxury of doing it how I want. On this basis I'd just like it to be a part of the main lighting circuit without a seperate fuse. Are your replies saying this is legit (point about unplugging accepted).

Do I really need 1 transformer per light?

Thanks,

Robert

 

[mrscalex]

I decided a while back to abandon the DIY sheds for this project and go to to a small, friendly local supplier for this kitchen project. So I went in there earlier.

Having found out that the transformers are only a fiver each (as are the fittings) and that they just sit loose (didn't fancy fixing 10 transformers to joists) I have bought 1 per light fitting. I've also had confirmed that I don't need any fuse protection and to just wire into the lighting circuit in the normal way.

The icing on the cake was catching the boss man who is a lighting engineer and he gave me a master class in how many lights I wanted and where to place them.

Hoorah for small independents!

Resgards,

Robert

 

[dingbat]

For 8 or 10 lights, 8 or 10 transformers would be better.

You can also buy ELV downlights with integral transformers. It only works out a little cheaper than separate units but you do have only one set of connections to worry about.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I decided a while back to abandon the DIY sheds for this project and go to to a small, friendly local supplier for this kitchen project. So I went in there earlier.

Good move.

Having found out that the transformers are only a fiver each (as are the fittings) and that they just sit loose (didn't fancy fixing 10 transformers to joists) I have bought 1 per light fitting. I've also had confirmed that I don't need any fuse protection and to just wire into the lighting circuit in the normal way.

That's the ticket...

The icing on the cake was catching the boss man who is a lighting engineer and he gave me a master class in how many lights I wanted and where to place them.

Do you remember any useful tips?

Hoorah for small independents!

!

 

[mrscalex]

Tips?

I was going to lay the lights out equidistant in a grid starting 450mm from the egde of the worksurface. This was observed from the numerous show homes I've toured for ideas. I'd okayed the quantity of lights and spacing using the light coverage diagrams in the Wickes leaflet. I was going to use fixed downlighters.

Well...

I was told to start 300 mm from the worksurface and to only run the lights around the edge of the L-shaped worksurfaces, ie don't try to cover the whole floor in a grid. Apparently the ambient light will be enough to cover the rest of the kitchen area (it is only 10x9) which doesn't need to be flooded. In terms of spacing there is a fomula. I only need 2 lights in a run and the formula is 1 unit : light : 2 units : light : 1 unit (where 1 unit is in my case about 2 foot). Makes sense I suppose as this accounts for the full radius of the light coverage. I was also told to use tiltable fittings to point the lights towards the below-counter cupboards, ie we are taking account of trying to light the inside of the cupboard.

For the dining/sitting part of the room I was told to layout in a grid (observing the above spacing rule). However I was also advised to add some dimmable mood lighting on 1 or 2 walls in this area as an alternative to having the downlighters on.

The above probably sounds simple and obvious but it was sufficiently different from what I was going to do to presumably make all the difference.

Regards,

Robert

 

[breezer]

lighting is a well under estimated / used "tool" too bright and it can hurt your eyes, too dim , you cant see, just right its marvelous.

Dimmers are a good idea (you must hav dimable transformers) coloured lighting is also good

 

[securespark]

fixed down lighters look neater...if you want extra light for tops, use u/c lighting.......