Lowering ceiling by 100mm?
- Thread starter Ian H
- Start date
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Sounds good.
Might also make it easier and cheaper to heat.
Will you fill space with loft roll to slightly dampen noise and increase insulation?
Might also make it easier and cheaper to heat.
Will you fill space with loft roll to slightly dampen noise and increase insulation?
Seems to me that sound insulation is a doomed trap. Inverse square law applies. It does work. But however much you spend it is never 'quite' good enough. And because you have fitted it you cannot compare before and after, or with and without.
Keeping that in mind, I have used Rockwool RWA45, and am happy with it and def recommend it. But like all sound proofing never a 100pc fix. Afterwards wished I had spent a little/lot more money and instead of using normal plaster board, used Sound Board or even Fire board as I had that avalible and to hand, to further increase density of wall.
And if I had done that I am sure I would have wished I used staggered studwork. And the resilient bars. Etc
But no idea (or way of telling) if this would have made a marked difference.
On a quiet morning can still hear the toilet in use.
Sfk
Keeping that in mind, I have used Rockwool RWA45, and am happy with it and def recommend it. But like all sound proofing never a 100pc fix. Afterwards wished I had spent a little/lot more money and instead of using normal plaster board, used Sound Board or even Fire board as I had that avalible and to hand, to further increase density of wall.
And if I had done that I am sure I would have wished I used staggered studwork. And the resilient bars. Etc
But no idea (or way of telling) if this would have made a marked difference.
On a quiet morning can still hear the toilet in use.
Sfk
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Seems to me that sound insulation is a doomed trap. Inverse square law applies. It does work. But however much you spend it is never 'quite' good enough. And because you have fitted it you cannot compare before and after, or with and without.
Keeping that in mind, I have used Rockwool RWA45, and am happy with it and def recommend it. But like all sound proofing never a 100pc fix. Afterwards wished I had spent a little/lot more money and instead of using normal plaster board, used Sound Board or even Fire board as I had that avalible and to hand, to further increase density of wall.
And if I had done that I am sure I would have wished I used staggered studwork. And the resilient bars. Etc
But no idea (or way of telling) if this would have made a marked difference.
On a quiet morning can still hear the toilet in use.
Sfk
We knocked a wall down on Sunday and sat for a bit after, admiring it. We could hear the neighbours moving around and taking, but, the house is fully empty of furniture, all the doors are off and half of the plaster.
For the price of 2 packs of RWA45 and some I think it will help. I can imagine she will do a bit of entertaining once she moves in so hopefully it will work both ways.
From my zero base knowledge of doing one wall using RWA45 in wall to neighbors, on a budget.
I would next time also : have small gap between studs and neighbours wall (ie studwork not attached to wall) and use higher density plasterboard or double up plasterboard.
I would next time also : have small gap between studs and neighbours wall (ie studwork not attached to wall) and use higher density plasterboard or double up plasterboard.
Ah yes, I’d read about not fixing it to the actual party wall so will be sure to do that again
This was my previous effort, it wasn’t RWA45 but was similar.
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/reducing-sound-through-party-wall-in-loft-conversion.496221/
This was my previous effort, it wasn’t RWA45 but was similar.
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/reducing-sound-through-party-wall-in-loft-conversion.496221/
100mm insulated plasterboard would be a solution & 125mm plasterboard screws
My arms ache already just reading that.
Thats what props are for!
That’s a good idea too but the cost could be a bit steep.
I just looked at that but not sure I understand how I would lower it 100mm. Would I have to make a full frame bolted in lower down? I don’t really like the idea of that.
As apposed to spending all day drilling bits of timber to the ceiling and still not achieving the same u.value
Stick with your original plan - simple, cheap, zero fuss as everything is fitted as separates - essential when you are lugging stuff upstairs.
100mm insulated boards would be an absolute b'stard. Forget that idea, especially if (like all pre-insulated boards) they have a natural curve in them.
P.S.
If you set out your 100mm battens across the existing, you are then free to set out your own spacings. I'd set mine at 450mm centres and use the more manageable 900mm x 1800mm boards.
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