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LVT flooring questions.

Discussion in 'Floors, Stairs and Lofts' started by Laurence Harvey, 31 May 2019.

  1. Laurence Harvey

    Laurence Harvey

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    I have a new kitchen/diner extension (approx 40 sq.mtrs) that needs flooring. I have no experience whatsoever of LVT but I’m told it is a better/warmer option than laminate flooring or ceramic tiles.

    However, I’ve noticed that the LVT seems to be very thin (i.e. 5mm) compared to most laminates.

    I have a local flooring ‘specialist’ coming round next week and he has already given a ball-park figure of £50 per sq.mtr (£2000) for supply/fit etc.

    I don’t know the in’s and out’s of laying LVT so I’m not sure exactly what is required in terms of materials/underlay etc. Can anyone enlighten me please?

    I also don’t know what quality of LVT his £50/sq.mtr figure will get me.

    I realise it was just a ball-park figure (and possibly liable to rise when he gives me an actual quote,... perhaps???) but does £50 sq.mtr seem like a reasonable starting figure?

    As ever, all replies/comments/advice gratefully received.
     
  2. crazydaze

    crazydaze

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    Firstly, Glued down LVT is slightly warmer than Stone/Ceramic but not as warm as a Laminate floor, Especially if the subfloor is Concrete. On a concrete subfloor with no underfloor heating, LVT will be cold no matter what anyone says. It is also solid underfoot and not forgiving in a similar way to Stone and Ceramic, Laminate would be more tactile.

    £50m2 sounds very cheap. does this include floor prep? It sounds like the price of a bang average LVT per m2 and Labour but not including floor prep. We tend to fit all our LVT jobs with high temperature adhesive to reduce potential glueing issues, it's not much more expensive than standard adhesive and worth the peace of mind.

    If you have a concrete subfloor, it is imperitive that moisture reading of the subfloor is taken before any estimate is given, specialist preparation product may be required if the subfloor is still drying out after the building work, alternatively there may be a wait for the subfloor to dry enough before floor prep and fitting can take place. A visual inspection is not good enough

    To fit LVT, the subfloor preperation has to be perfect, the type of subfloor will dictate the process required. Assuming the subfloor is moisture tested and dry, on a concrete Subfloor, the whole floor will need to be self levelling screeded to a high quailty, perfect finish. Once the screed is laid and flatted back, the LVT will be glued directly to this surface, ANY imperfection will show through the tiles when they are installed. On a wooden subfloor, a 6mm ply will need to be laid, screwed at 4 inch intervals across the entire floor. Once completed, the ply will need microcoating on all joints and across all screw heads to give a perfect surface on which to Glue the LVT Tiles. Again, any imperfections will show through the LVT.
     
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  4. Laurence Harvey

    Laurence Harvey

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    Many thanks for the extremely detailed and comprehensive reply;...very much appreciated.(y)
     
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  5. Chaser

    Chaser

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    Could I piggyback this thread and ask about DIY fitted Quickstep Livyn Click Vinyl? I'm considering the possibility of installing 60m2 of the stuff over multiple rooms (4 in total). The subfloor will be suspended timbers with 18mm chipboard T&G, screwed and glued over 400mm centres.

    Is it sufficient to install on top of this with Quickstep underlay or will it require a plywood base on top of the chipboard? Im planning to install skirts on top of it so there will be expansion gaps around the edges, but without thresholds across the doorways.
     
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  7. crazydaze

    crazydaze

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    All seems ok apart from the lack of expansion gaps in the doorways.

    If you fit through the doorways, it’s best to accept that it’s possible you may need to retro fit door profiles if you have an issue at a later date.
     
  8. DIYnot Local

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