maia worktops

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i will be fitting a maia worktop from homebase,it chipboard with a 3mm acrylic coating. I have read the fitting instructions but it doesn't sound easy. Has anyone fitted them and if so any tips.
 
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These worktops are a low-cost solid surface worktop, albeit with a very thin top surface. In many ways they are handled in a similar manner to ordinary laminate worktops, although the edge trimming/scribing, etc need to be done with a router rather than a jig saw. Joints are cut using a laminate worktop jig, although you do need to invest in a slot milling bit to get the loose tongues in, so the extra processes do make the job slower. It is true that they require a bit more care in installation (e.g. you DO need to incorporate expansion gaps), but the only major difficulty is that the joints need to be sanded through the grits in order from P120 to P240, P320 and finally Scotch-Brite red on a random orbit sander. This must be done on a random orbit sander with good extraction (read Festool, Metabo, not some cheap Black & Decker tat, what you are after is good dust extraction and an effective brake on the oscillation action), the machine and worktop need to be cleaned thoroughly between grits to avoid cross-contamination (standard solid surface procedure, that) - and you do need a mask and dust extraction as the sanding produces large volumes of chokingly fine dust, just like every other solid surface material.

So other than a decent 1750 watt 1/2in router and a jig (which you'd need for a laminate top in any case) with some new 1/2in bits the only extras are a decent random orbit sander, a vacuum cleaner (which you should have), a dust mask (ditto), a decent quality slotting cutter (it doesn't need to be the Titman combination specified as Wealden will sell you a T5430 3mm x 40mm diameter slotter and a T3030-1/2 long 1/2in arbor to achieve the same 13mm x 3mm slot, but for less dosh - just over £17). a 20mm straight bit (for the cut outs), a 3mm round-over bit (for the edge profiling of cut outs) and finally some edge cramps for the ends - probably about an extra £60 if you can beg, borrow or even hire an ROS. If you can make an MDF cabinet or cut a worktop joint well, then you can joint this stuff - if you have limited equipment, ability or experience then get a tradesman in to do it, but remember that the job will cost more as it is a much more time-consuming operation and requires equipment not normally in the kit of a kitchen fitter

For anyone interested there is an on-line guide here

Scrit
 
thanks for the advice . I can fit normal worktops it was the grooves for the tongues i was worried about. Cheers
 
Try this site, it's not - "maia"? but it sounds like the same sort of thing, Getacore is another brand name for this kind of generic semi-solid worktop.

It has a full video instruction stream and may or may not be helpful.

www.artis.co.uk

Look for "product training" on smartstone in the top menu.

might be completely off the page but I think it's the same thing?

good luck.
 
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I had a Maia breakfast bar installed by a professional installer. I was sold on the company's promise that they were straightforward to install as long as you follow the DVD and use their kit, but they've been a disaster. The seams are very visible and ruin the look of the counter. I spent a coup,e hundred quid on their joining kits, and The binding agent is a totally different color - a pale pink compared to the greyish latte worktop. I think thats the problem, and my installer says hes done a black one where the color matched and there was no problem. From the outset I started calling the company for help, and I got a blank response "watch the DVD, you must be doing it wrong." I asked if I could hire a specialist from the company to install it. At first they said no. Then they said maybe. Then finally they said no. This answer took weeks of phone calls and emails to extract, as every question is emailed to the supplier by customer service and takes days to come back. They were totally inflexible and unhelpful from the outset - a shame because besides the seams, the counters look nice. This has delayed my kitchen by more than a month, and I'm not sure what to do. I'm thinking of just pulling them out and replacing with laminate, which is heartbreaking after all the money and work.
 
I had to fit one of these at my home and I honestly can say it was one of the most difficult worktops to fit, in the end I gave up and hired a company to do it for me.
 
The thread is five years old. Let me guess - you are a competitor slagging them off. ;)
 

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