Mains 30he no heating or hot water

[joe-90]

Are you saying the engineer has taken your money and ridden off into the sunset?

 

[Joe4542]

Hi, obviously I cannot see what your attending eng did when he 'checked' the knob/potentiometer position, but I would still say the knob position sounds most likely.
Given you say the boiler runs up to about 50deg then cuts out, with presumably no further error lights, it would suggest that, as far as the boiler is concerned, it has reached your requested temp(as set by CH knob), then cycles on the pump overrun for 3mins before then restarting.
In this case, and given the primary NTC supposedly having already been changed, I would still think the knob/pcb position to be the issue.
If you were to check again, you could turn off the boiler power (at socket or spur), turn both DHW/CH knobs to minimum, drop down control panel and remove control cover. The two potentiomers on the pcb(the parts which measure the knob position) should both be in the same position - note the small notch lined up with the full clockwise limit.

View media item 55874 View media item 55875

 

[Jhangy]

Hi

Your right no faults codes appear it does appear to have reached its temp and knock off, the engineer did take the pcb out sit it on the control panel connect it all up fire it up but still the same problem.. Hot water works fine temp rises as normal LEDs light up upto 80 deg.

But still problem with heating, joe4542 do both potentiometers have to line up the same? Once board is connected the knobs do turn from low to high and the flame fluctuates to show the difference in temp demand.

 

[Agile]

Hey guys, don't want you guys arguing because of me.

Dont worry, they can argue very well without you.

Its just when they see a post with some non sequiturs they all jump in.

Its difficult for an engineer to diagnose faults from behind a keyboard. In fact only Joe-90 has those skills.

Obviously there are common causes of some faults on your model. the obvious common ones are swapping sensor leads, non operative inside of DHW microswitch, faults in wiring harness.

All things which any competent engineer is familiar with finding.

Tony

 

[Jhangy]

Hey guys, don't want you guys arguing because of me.

Dont worry, they can argue very well without you.

Its just when they see a post with some non sequiturs they all jump in.

Its difficult for an engineer to diagnose faults from behind a keyboard. In fact only Joe-90 has those skills.

Obviously there are common causes of some faults on your model. the obvious common ones are swapping sensor leads, non operative inside of DHW microswitch, faults in wiring harness.

All things which any competent engineer is familiar with finding.

Tony

Hi mate

As joe4542 mentioned I do think its the potentiometer for the ch that isn't positioned properly as its gets the radiators luke warm (50deg) then goes off few minutes later boiler gora through its cycle again.

What do you think agile from your experience?

Thanks

 

[Agile]

If the shafts are 180 degrees out then the knobs will not rotate their usual 270 degrees.

But you said that they turn through their usual travel and the flame varies appropriately.

Tony

 

[Jhangy]

If the shafts are 180 degrees out then the knobs will not rotate their usual 270 degrees.

But you said that they turn through their usual travel and the flame varies appropriately.

Tony

Hi agile

Yes the flame fluctuates as I turn both knobs which would indicate knobs are working from my understanding..

Which leads me back to square one.

 

[joe-90]

Well it seems to me that you've made the wrong diagnosis as changing the PCB has had no result.

I suggest you call a gas engineer in.

 

[Gigas]

Joe just bog of will u or this will be another post u have ruined!
For clarity, if you were to turn temp knob to max it runs to 50? Have you tried turning it down slightly (10%) to see if it then goes to 40?

 

[Jhangy]

Joe90 is obviously not following the thread.. Pcb was initially the fault theirs no denying that.

Gi gas- if I turn the temp knob down it turns off alot quicker due to it already being above that temp? When I firing it up on ch the red LEDs light up starting 30 40 and 50 deg, the 50 deg light stays on and it's as if when the 60 deg light should come on it knocks the boiler off.

Appreciate you guys taking time out to help.

 

[Gigas]

It sounds like the temp knob is set wrong but it could be a faulty board from supplier. It can happen.

 

[Deleted member 63160]

Joe90 is obviously not following the thread.. Pcb was initially the fault theirs no denying that.

Ignore him. He is a troll.

Long shot but worth checking- some boards have jumpers to set various parameters. I've seem some where microswitches can be set to limit heating to 45 or 50 deg for underfloor heating. Probably not your problem but worth checking. May be mentioned in the info sent with the board.

 

[Jhangy]

Cheers for the advice guys, I did think could the board be at fault but then could it be? What are the chances of a faulty board.

When you say parameters is it the little blue box with the Phillips head? Or the little black box next to it (according the above pic from joe4542)
Apologies if that sounds stupid.

Thanks

 

[joe-90]

You shouldn't be messing with the PCB as it affects the gas operation of the boiler. The locals shouldn't be giving you gas advice as the forum rules forbid it. Time to get someone in.

 

[Deleted member 63160]

Cheers for the advice guys, I did think could the board be at fault but then could it be? What are the chances of a faulty board.

When you say parameters is it the little blue box with the Phillips head? Or the little black box next to it (according the above pic from joe4542)
Apologies if that sounds stupid.

Thanks

I wasn't suggesting you fiddle. Just maybe mention it to the installer. Some boards do have settings that can effect the safe operation of the boiler.
Better safe than sorry