mains inlet repair

[diy mad]

Hi,
My son has recently moved into a house with a mains water supply entering through a cellar.
There is misalignment in the copper water pipe where it enters a service valve and it is slightly leaking.
My first thought was to cut out the mis-aligned section and replace with a flexible compression hose.
Would this be ok or do I need to use solid copper pipe. would any hose need to be WRAS approved? (Don't think Screwfix do one).
Thank You,
Dave

 

[HERTS P&D]

Post a picture Dave.

Andy

 

[oldbuffer]

1. The bore of a flexible connector is considerably less than that of equivalent sized copper pipe, so you would almost certainly have a significant flow reduction.
2. If the braiding round a flexible hose gives way / rots, the inner rubber is likely to burst with catastrophic results.
3. Given where it is and what it is, I'd suggest you do the job properly with new copper pipe either bent to suit or with capillary (end feed or Yorkshire) solder fittings.

 

[diy mad]

Hi Andy,
Thanks for reply.
The house is about 80 miles away but I'll ask my son to e-mail a picture ASAP.
Ta,
Dave

 

[diy mad]

Thanks Old Buffer

 

[HERTS P&D]

By posting a picture we can give you a parts list of what you need and the best way of doing it.

Andy

 

[diy mad]

Hi Andy,
Photos attached.
As you can see, the pipe is very close to the timber joists/insulation/electrics, so I'd be more comfortable with compession/pushfit joints rather than a blowtorch.
I'll probably replace the stopcock/drain valve too.
Thanks & regards,
Dave.

 

[dilalio]

Get rid of the ballofix valve and put in a lever valve. Use munson rings with female backplates and threaded rod to make longer supports for the pipe so that it is not under strain and is kept straight and level.

 

[just pumps]

Not saying it will work however it is worth.............
Remove those screws and clips.
Gently ease the pipe out so it is better aligned and see if you can nip the compression nut up to stop the leak.
Then refit the clips with wood behind the clips as spacers.
Keep an eye on it for awhile to see if the drip stops.

Edit, agree with the lever valve.

 

[oldbuffer]

1. That isolation valve:
1a. Serves no apparent purpose, unless (as is likely) the stopcock doesn't work.
1b. Is already restricting the flow, as it is not a full bore valve.
2. If you have another way of stopping the flow (e.g. a stop valve in the street), replace the stopcock. Use a good one like a Pegler. After installation, open it fully then close back 1/2 a turn as it is then less likely to stick.
3. You could replace the drain off with a compression one, or, if it is working, you could leave it in place and use the copper pipe into it to connect to the new stopcock and the copper pipe out of it to connect to the system.
4. You could replace the isolation valve with a repair coupler, such as Screwfix 85529
5. You need to straighten the pipe run up or you'll have the same problems again. Use different clips (e.g. Talon) and space them off the existing timbers as necessary to get a straight line.

If I were doing it I'd use a soldered in drain off (remove washer while soldering) and a new length of copper pipe joined with soldered coupling to the existing pipe at the right of your picture. Removing the clips temporarily should give enough space to solder safely. Fire extinguisher at the ready, bucket or two of water to hand. Wet the timbers down, use a soldering mat and some crumpled aluminium foil to protect. Allow to cool, re-clip. Inspect after one hour and again after two hours.

My typing is too slow, see others above

 

[HERTS P&D]

Does the stopcock work or can you turn the water off from outside?

This is the lever valve that is needed:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-ball-valve-blue-15mm/11085

Andy

 

[diy mad]

Thanks a million to everyone who helped.
I feel much better and plan to do the work at the weekend.
Thanks again,
Dave