Manrose wiring question.

[bella34]

Hi folks, I've got a Manrose VXF100S extractor fan to replace the the existing Emcovent one.
The power supply cable had 4 wires into the connection block to the fan unit as follows, brown/brown, black/black, blue/blue and and finally the green/yellow to nothing.
The new Manrose standard unit has connections for two wires marked live and neutral, which two wires go to the new unit and what to do with the other two unused ones.
Many thanks in advance AB .

 

[Jackrae]

The original fan probably had a timer module built into it so required a switched live and a permanent live as well as a neutral. If your new fan has only two wires then it has no timer fitted.

The switched live MAY be the black, the neutral MAY be the blue and the permanent live MAY be the brown.

If all the MAYs are correct then your new fan connects to Black and Blue.

Your new fan obviously has no earth connection so the green/yellow wire is not used.

The original fan should have a 3-pole isolator switch somewhere. If you can locate this you might be able to identify if the mAYs are correct.

 

[b13kal]

Hi

Looking at your post you don't sound like an electricain . However I'm going to help you. The brown and black are going to be your lives. Blue is neutral and greens your earth .

Now from the fan you described it's not a timer fan, because is has two connections not 3. So what you need to do I connect the blue to the neutral and black to the live. But most important you need to check it with a volt meter before you connect . You are looking for the switched live not the permanent live

It's most important to know what voltage your fan is and the voltage of the supply.

 

[AdamCH]

Hi

Looking at your post you don't sound like an electricain . However I'm going to help you. The brown and black are going to be your lives. Blue is neutral and greens your earth .

Now from the fan you described it's not a timer fan, because is has two connections not 3. So what you need to do I connect the blue to the neutral and black to the live. But most important you need to check it with a volt meter before you connect . You are looking for the switched live not the permanent live

It's most important to know what voltage your fan is and the voltage of the supply.

And what to do with the permanent live?

 

[Jackrae]

Leave it terminated on one of the terminals within the 4-way junction box that you install between the cable end and the fan

 

[Taylortwocities]

Leave it terminated on one of the terminals within the 4-way junction box that you install between the cable end and the fan

Eh? What junction box. There should not need to be one.

The permanent live must be safely terminated. A single piece of insulated choc block will be fine.

I am wondering why you are not replacing the existing timer fan with another timer fan?

 

[Jackrae]

A single piece of insulated choc block will be fine.

Only if it's within an enclosure. A 4 way "lighting" junction box would probably be the simplest enclosure if there isn't space within the new fan terminal enclosure

 

[bella34]

[quote

I am wondering why you are not replacing the existing timer fan with another timer fan?[/quote]

Right, firstly I assumed the original replacement was a timer model, I've now exchanged that for a timer fan (definite ), so my wiring should now be Earth blocked off and taped over, Blue/neutral, Black/switched live, Brown/ permanent live.....is that correct ?.

 

[Taylortwocities]

It depends on how the old one was wired.

Did you make a note of which wires went to what terminals on the old fan?

Different electricians wire things up in different ways.

Its a good guess that the brown will be the permanent live, but either the blue or the black could be neutral (is either of those wires sleeved blue, or brown by any chance?)

But we don't guess at things, otherwise you could be back to replace the new fan, if it is not connected properly.

You need to determine which is really teh switched live and which is the neutral. Do you have a multimeter?.

Or, do you know where the other end of that cable comes from? Can you take a picture of the other end and post it on here? (not the end at the fan!)

 

[Chri5]

A single piece of insulated choc block will be fine.

Only if it's within an enclosure. A 4 way "lighting" junction box would probably be the simplest enclosure if there isn't space within the new fan terminal enclosure

That will look luverrrrrllllyyyyy (not). So where again would you suggest this external, accessible jb ?

The cases tend to be common for fan models, so the above when used with over run timer model has space for LNE and SL, so why wouldn't the base model have the same or even more room (since the timer module won't be in it).

 

[bella34]

To be honest I didnt take note of the old connections because I thought it was a straightforward change, so i'll have to pop in the loft tomorrow and make notes and then get back to you.
A, I didn't realise how complicated electrics can be.
B, you'll have already guessed i'm less than an expert on such matters.
Thanks for your interest.

 

[Taylortwocities]

A single piece of insulated choc block will be fine.

Only if it's within an enclosure. A 4 way "lighting" junction box would probably be the simplest enclosure if there isn't space within the new fan terminal enclosure

This part of the thread is redundant as the OP has now a timer fan, so there will be on "unused" conductors to terminate anywhere except onto the fan's terminal block.

 

[bella34]

Or, do you know where the other end of that cable comes from? Can you take a picture of the other end and post it on here? (not the end at the fan!)

Right, here are some pics of my fan wiring connections .

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The white cable is the supply to the fan, bare wires off the other cables are joined to the fan supply yellow wire underneath the unit as shown.
Hope this helps.

 

[Taylortwocities]

OK

So in that box, thw wire that is blue is actually grey, with a blue sleeve over it. so in your fan, the grey is the neutral. It should be sleeved blue at the fan end to show that it is the neutral.
Brown is perm live
black is switched live. It should have a brown sleeve on that wire at both ends to show that it is a conductor that can become live.

Those earth wires should not be twisted and terminated outside the box.
There are spare terminals in the box, use them to join together all of the earth wires, These should be sleeved green & Yellow.

 

[bella34]

Job done, although I need to get in the loft and tidy up those external wires.
For your information the fan is a VXF100T, it is noisier than the previous Emcovent unit, also when the bathroom lights are switched on the fan instantly starts up whereas the other unit had a delay of about 1 minute which was good because sometimes you go in the bathroom for something without wanting the fan to start up.