Thanks. I think I will not replace 'MK LOGIC PLUS 20A 1-GANG DP CONTROL SWITCH WHITE WITH NEON' with 'Greenbrook timer' as JohnD mentions it will lose DP isolation lose and will cause an issue to my immersion heater immediately.
It will be the immersion heater that in time, will go faulty. And eventually the timer will wear out. It is very preferable to have DP isolation before starting repair.
All you have to do is drill two holes in the wall and screw on an extra plastic backbox.
Your diagram above is correct.
If the flex cable to the immersion is long enough, then often this cable is simply used to go in and out of the new timer, with no need to disturb the DP switch..
Connecting the flex cable Earth wires together within the timer.
Yes details here but my question is why do you need a time switch? If you have off peak then good idea, but a tank of water takes so long to cool, unless off peak or a Willis System there seems little point.
Yes details here but my question is why do you need a time switch? If you have off peak then good idea, but a tank of water takes so long to cool, unless off peak or a Willis System there seems little point.
Good catch. I use a direct e7 copper cylinder and can utilize an off-peak rate. I only need hot water to wash the dishes, hands, and face. The off-peak will cost me £0.80 per hour. To boil the whole tank will cost me £4 per day (It takes 5 hours to boil it). I tried with 2 hours off-peak, it only cost me £1.60 to boil the right temperature for me to wash the dishes, hands, and face. So, I plan to use timer for my off-peak.
I just found another device which is TIMEGUARD FBT4N 4 Hour Electronic Boost Timer (double poles). I guess I can replace my 'MK LOGIC PLUS 20A 1-GANG DP CONTROL SWITCH WHITE WITH NEON' with it. Or fit it downstream of the DP switch.
If I just replace my 'MK LOGIC PLUS 20A 1-GANG DP CONTROL SWITCH WHITE WITH NEON' with it. Do you think it will work? So, I don't need to create another hole on my wall
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