Messed up heating!

[AL]

For such a new boiler this is sodding annoying.

Yep i know what you mean, i had the potterton intermittent lock out problem (flashing red light) and was forever resetting my boiler via the reset switch! One day i got fed up so i took the PCB out, reflowed all the major solder joints and thankfully it never did it again


Worth a try?

AL

 

[Matt1]

For such a new boiler this is sodding annoying.

Yep i know what you mean, i had the potterton intermittent lock out problem (flashing red light) and was forever resetting my boiler via the reset switch! One day i got fed up so i took the PCB out, reflowed all the major solder joints and thankfully it never did it again


Worth a try?

AL

How easy is it to remove the PCB? Can you do this without disturbing the Gas side as I don't want to disrupt that part!

Is it just a case of heating up each solder joint one by one?!

 

[oilman]

You should not have to disturb the gas connections. Reflowing the joints is best done by sucking the solder off with a pump or a wick, and then resoldering. The problem is usually caused by wires being cropped after the original soldering and then an oxide layer builds up round the wires after about six months. You might be able to see the problem joints if you know what to look for.

 

[Matt1]

Many thanks to everyone so far.

I will give it a shot once I work out how to remove the board.

I know I'm stubborn and probably should just stump up the cash and get Potterton to put a new one in, but I think it's wrong spending money on something that's clearly a manufacturing problem.

Don't consumers have some protection against this?!

Oh well....

 

[MANDATE]

Removing the pcb is easy enough, having eased off the connectors there is just either two or four small screws retaining it.
I found the connector for the high tension lead quite tight and I left it connected at the pcb and disconnected the other end at the electrodes.
Potterton did introduce a improved version of the pcb about 18 months ago which proves they were aware of the problem. whether or not Potterton will change it for free is not known but worth a try.
The cost of a pcb is I've heard is over £200 but I got mine from www.curzoncare.co.uk about £135 trade.
You can get your pcb reconditioned for about £45

 

[Matt1]

Removing the pcb is easy enough, having eased off the connectors there is just either two or four small screws retaining it.
I found the connector for the high tension lead quite tight and I left it connected at the pcb and disconnected the other end at the electrodes.
Potterton did introduce a improved version of the pcb about 18 months ago which proves they were aware of the problem. whether or not Potterton will change it for free is not known but worth a try.
The cost of a pcb is I've heard is over £200 but I got mine from www.curzoncare.co.uk about £135 trade.
You can get your pcb reconditioned for about £45

Sorry to drag this up again...

I started to remove all the leads but how does the HT lead come off - doesn't want to come off easily. There is a red crimped wire going onto a black pot on the board - which part comes off, or do I have to slide the crimp off - nothing wants to give.

Also ... Can I just re-heat/flow the solder or do I need to remove it and re-apply new solder?


Cheers
Matt.

 

[MANDATE]

I found it easier to undo the other end of the HT lead, I left the wire connection intact at the pcb and just removed the small screw holding the electrode bracket so I had the pcb with HT lead and electrode bracket hanging from it. To do this of course you have to remove the casing.
The connectors however will come off, but as you have found they are tight on.you may have to apply some leverage with a screwdriver blade.
Regarding the soldering, I didn't do mine but I think you only need to remove the solder when you are removing components. I would suggest though that you apply flux. If you do want to remove solder then you will need some braided wick or a solder pump.
I suggest you examine with a magnyfing glass, without one the joints didn't look that bad.
The problem joints all seemed to be where the terminal posts were fitted.
Hope all goes well!

 

[Matt1]

I found it easier to undo the other end of the HT lead, I left the wire connection intact at the pcb and just removed the small screw holding the electrode bracket so I had the pcb with HT lead and electrode bracket hanging from it. To do this of course you have to remove the casing.
The connectors however will come off, but as you have found they are tight on.you may have to apply some leverage with a screwdriver blade.
Regarding the soldering, I didn't do mine but I think you only need to remove the solder when you are removing components. I would suggest though that you apply flux. If you do want to remove solder then you will need some braided wick or a solder pump.
I suggest you examine with a magnyfing glass, without one the joints didn't look that bad.
The problem joints all seemed to be where the terminal posts were fitted.
Hope all goes well!

The HT Lead disappears into what I assume is the gas chamber?
I didn't want to disturb that as I'm not a pro where gas is concerned!

I will try and remove as much I can I guess and take the soldering iron to it.

Cheers for the advice.
Matt.

 

[MANDATE]

Theres only two screws at the right holding the casing, the left side is hooked on. With the case off it becomes a lot clearer how it all functions.
The spark ignition is in the area of the gas chamber, it lights the gas when the gas is released from the gas valve, but there will be no gas when the boiler is off. you need to energise two solinoids for the valve to open.
You can either disconnect the HT lead or remove the electrodes complete.
There is one other point worth mentioning, potterton on one occasion did suggest they had reported problems with the HT lead insulation, where the electric may short to the boiler at the wrong place so the igniton spark will not occur where it should. So check the lead for any signs of shorting.

 

[flashbang]

I've resoldered my potterton PCB. I just applied heat with the soldering iron, and topped up the joints with a little more fluxed solder. If you are going to solder the legs of a component, then apply the heat for the shortest time possible to get a flow, many components don't like 'hot legs' Or any of rod Stewart music come to that
Good luck.
Flashbang